Mood board: The collection looked to the Arctic as a place being destroyed but is itself totally unforgiving. The clothes explored the need for extreme protection but with a street sensitivity. Elongated degrade cable-knit jumpers were worn over ski-pants with balaclavas. Contrasting layers of different proportions were key too; a cyan puffa was worn under a technical blazer and check ski jacket. Both the invitation and show notes were screen printed onto a sheet of multi-purpose insulation, made using recycled fabrics and yarns from previous seasons. The label is partnering with Earth Guardians in the autumn to create products that will further push their message of sustainability.
Scene setting: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon brought the backstage centre stage. A huge hanger space at the The Parc de la Villette was kitted out with brightly lit hair and make-up stations that weren’t just for display. Throughout, production staff milled around rails of clothes and make-up artists misted the skin of models as they stood in line, ready to walk. The show was back to front. Suspended above the space was the artist and long-time friend of the brand Devonté Hynes who played an exclusive mix at the piano.
Sound bite: The show combined both the men’s and the women’s collections, reflecting current notions of gender identity and fluidity. ‘At Kenzo, they have always been friends, sisters and brothers, husband and wife so it was natural to do a dual gender show. The two collections follow a similar story of considering where we are today,’ Leon said. ‘We always try to use our platform to ask questions about topics that we care about.’
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Last chance to see: Sharjah Biennial 15, ‘Thinking Historically in the Present’Built on the vision of late curator Okwui Enwezor, the Sharjah Biennial 15: ‘Thinking Historically in the Present’ offers a critical reframing of postcolonial narratives through major new commissions
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For London Gallery Weekend 2023, the mood is hardcore
With London Gallery Weekend 2023 almost upon us (2 – 4 June), here’s our list of must-see art exhibitions
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Birkenstock celebrates its most memorable styles with colourful capsule (and matching socks)
Birkenstock marks the 40th, 50th and 60th anniversaries of the Gizeh, Arizona and Madrid sandals, respectively, with limited-edition versions
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Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
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Kenzo returns to Galerie Vivienne for Nigo’s A/W 2022 show debut
For his debut, A/W 2022 Kenzo show, the brand’s new creative director Nigo chose Paris’ Galerie Vivienne, the location of founder Kenzo Takada’s first boutique
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Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
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Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
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Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
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Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
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Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
