Ermenegildo Zegna Couture A/W 2016

Mood board: Stefano Pilati gave new meaning to the name of the brand he works for - Zegna Couture - in a collection that was seeped in the sort of old-world craft and minute, whisper-weight detail that defined the haute couture salons of last century. With fine suiting broken down into carefully considered, key wardrobe pieces, the mood here was refined, regal and yet understatedly wearable. The results were spell-bindingly beautiful.

Best in show: The majority of the looks in this collection shone, from the gently printed overcoats to the fine, precisely cut wool suiting that harked back to an another era. Best of all were the knit sweaters that came embellished with rich silver flower and crystal embroideries, creating scintillating, sturdy canvases above gently flowing wool pants or top coats with belted backs.

Finishing touches: Everything was considered in this show, from the perfectly combed model’s hair, the top hats they held in hands, and the leather number badges that were tied to their wrists like old-fashioned salon models. The numbers popped up on buttons pinned on jackets and were paired with fuzzy white shearling portfolio cases and gentlemanly leather gloves.