Pringle of Scotland A/W 2016

Mood board: Scottish heritage brand Pringle is renowned for elevating knitwear onto the pedestal of outerwear, however this season designer Massimo Nicosia funnelled that focus to even greater effect. Working with a linear framework, the house’s argyle pattern was reworked with leather and felted wool, as tartan and Prince of Wales checked jumpers explored different scales of the traditional grid work.

Sound bite: ’I was looking at the work of artist Agnes Martin with its repeated grid motifs, and it made me want to explore the idea of working with a regular, repetitive pattern, but playing with scale and abstraction to create something irregular and unfamiliar,’ Nicosia explained of the season’s grid-worked knits, tartan tailoring and patchwork coats that were a mélange of textures and murky olive hues.

Best of show: A turtleneck, rib knitted waistcoat that was entirely backless and worn over a generously cuffed pin-striped shirt and paired back with the season’s ankle-tabbed pant.