Mood board: Built on the easy uniform of crew-neck knits, mao shirts and striped tees, Paul Smith eschewed shirt collars altogether to push a carefree message of cool, cocooning coats in flat felts, fur, giant puffer quilting and pale windowpane checks. A 1950s palette of russet and terracotta tones warmed the otherwise staid palette of blended greyscale and taupe.
Best in show: Adding some oomph to the subtle checkerboard suiting, Smith re-appropriated a slew of triangular graphics from the paintings and textile works of Josef and Anni Albers. They were evoked in multicolour intarsia sweaters and a suspended totem pendant.
Finishing touches: Smith’s team honoured the season’s scarf trend – long and flowing tucked under coats – with vibrant silk and wool styles emblazoned with ombré stripes and rainbow Cubist motifs.
