A 360-degree tour of the shows, from the invitations to backstage reports, grooming trends and venue highlights
'The structure comes from within,' said an energised Neil Barrett backstage, referring to his triumphant A/W menswear collection, where the sport-tinged clothes might very well have stood up on their own in a corner without any body to buttress them. If that sounds awfully stiff and rigid, it wasn't. This season Barrett was clever enough to work an array of high-tech bonded fabrics - from wool to rayon - that had the gleaming, weighty surface of polished marble. The lynch pin silhouette of the collection was the sweatshirt - a Barrett staple that has risen in his product arsenal to cult-like high fashion status over the last few seasons. After initially striking gold with this basic beauty, Barrett has continued to evolve the garment, morphing it from just a casual nobody to a formal, centre stage piece, and adding on inventive intarsia designs that sizzle with black leather, or crackle with a thunderbolt. Bolstered by slim, cropped sleek sweatpants, and sharply drawn jackets and belted coats, this collection gelled in a coolly cohesive way. An added bonus was the degrade colourations that dripped over mohair, wool, or cashmere jackets and pants, a technical conceit that hit its crescendo in a jacket that blurred from tobacco leather to suede on a single garment.
Milan Menswear A/W 2014 Shows
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