Editor’s picks from New York Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

Tommy Hilfiger: The collection heavily referenced Ali MacGraw circa Love story entwined with his country's obsession with American football.

Photography: Antonio Camera

Rag & Bone: David Neville and Marcus Wainwright worked a Nineties hip-hop vibe into their utility sportswear that was fused with some serious street cred for A/W 2015. Vinyl-coated wool pencil skirts worn over pants flashed us right back to the TLC and Salt-N-Pepa era, where the puffer was cast as coat of honour.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Dion Lee: The Australian designer went with his signature bodycon silhouettes, sculpting languid, asymmetric shapes this season. Loosely woven overlays gave looks an undone yet architectural quality, which ensured that Lee's high octane glamour still shone through

The Row: You could say that the Olsen twins had us at hello, given that their A/W show was held on the 35th floor of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe's Seagram Building. The collection also paid homage to New York, where the pair will soon open a flagship store, their luxurious tailoring cut with a luxe, city slicker austerity

Opening Ceremony: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim mined friend and collaborator Spike Jones' prolific personal photo album for A/W's prints, which documented the rise of skate subcultures and Jones' work with Sonic Youth and The Beastie Boys. The imagery also makes up Jones' new exhibition, 'Please Use Your Best Judgement', that's now on show at New York's Cheim & Read gallery and curated by Leon and Lim

Public School: Designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne's womenswear collection picked up from where the pair's menswear left off, with a monochrome palette and a lesson in utilitarian layering.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Public School: The pair picked up the latest Woolmark Award in January of this year in London.

Photography: Antonio Camera

Prabal Gurung: Given that New York is suffering from the coldest weather in 20 years, Prabal Gurung's line-up of excellent outerwear hit all the right notes, while his feminine cocktail offering worked Native American patterns into leather, as skirts were split thigh high.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Thakoon: A psychedelic backdrop was only the beginning for Thakoon's bohemian A/W collection...

Thakoon: The New Yorker reworked 1970s favourites with newfound perspective, resulting in a clever array of patchwork wool coats, crinkled lamé skirts and velvet tunics dressed in tapestry prints.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Gabriela Hearst: The American's inaugural womenswear collection put focus on the purpose behind each piece as fine materials were boosted by versatile functionalities

Prada: The Italian brand presented the third chapter of its Iconoclasts project with a takeover of the Broadway Epicenter store by costume designers Michael Wilkinson and Tim Martin. Mannequins were jewelled with mirrored tiles, sequins and stones, which build upon the rich brocades of Mrs Prada's S/S 2015 collection, while a golden woman swinging from the ceiling cemented the scene's Seventies, mirrorball moment.

Photography: Ricky Zehavi

Creatures of the Wind: Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters put a fresh spin on Americana (stars and all). Seventies silhouettes were redone in sumptuous fabrics like metallic knits, organza brocades and fur, in tones of grey rose, pink and ecru, for a refined finish.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Polo Ralph Lauren: The lifestyle brand proved that its trademark combination of heritage fabrics, soft tailoring and bright pops of colour are as captivating as ever. This season also brought the launch of the house's reinvigorated Polo Sport line, taking inspiration from rugby, soccer and American football

Protagonist: It was all about bold, beautiful restraint at Protagonist's A/W show. The collection was inspired by the arte povera (poor art) movement and overflowed with subtle exposed details. Set designer Lucas Lefler installed a found door within the venue's industrial loft space and used classical furniture to evoke the domesticity of the avant-garde Italian art movement

Moncler Grenoble: Moncler well and truly got into the Valentine's Day spirit, welcoming guests with cocktails and Mon Chéri chocolates in addition to a heart-shaped set

Visvim: On the accessory trail craftsmanship was the name of the game courtesy of Visvim's hand-dyed denim umbrellas and illustrated hats