Editor's picks from London Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

Christopher Raeburn: Maintaining the Brit's fervour for utilising sustainable fabrics, this season Christopher Raeburn fashioned a parka from a decommissioned life raft, and a cape from a Danish military blanket. Femininity was found in his offering of skirts; slit above the knee and wrapped with chiffon swathes. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

By Jack Moss

last updated 18 July 2022

Models on the runway at London Fashion Week 2015 — **Joseph:** The British brand's A/W show, staged within the basement of London's Brewer Street Car Park, made a stong case for the return of blanket dressing with this season's collection taking inspiration from artist and minimalist Robert Morris' work 'Felt'

Womenswear collections from London Fashion Week 2015 — **KÉJI:** Designer and Hong Kong native Katie Green was inspired by the recent 'Shunga' exhibition at the British Museum for her debut line that offered a modern tailored silhouette using premium Japanese denim

Clothing piece from London Fashion Week 2015 — **Mulberry**: The British house looked to the Georgian interiors of old English homes utilising both Rococo and classical design elements for A/W. Fittingly a white colour palette dominated the season's architecturally tailored coats, as scarves were decorated with more literal cornices and ceiling mouldings

Portraits of models against a brick wall — **McQ:** The house's winter campaign was captured by Wallpaper* contributor Harley Weir and was inspired by founder Alexander McQueen's time spent at friend and collaborator Isabella Blow's country estate

Models posing from London Fashion Week 2015 — **Peter Pilotto**: The 'Snakes and Ladders'-inspired collection of Pilotto and Christopher De Vos.

*Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Christopher Kane clothing store — **Christopher Kane**: After much ado, Christopher Kane has finally opened his first store on London’s Mount Street. Designed by John Pawson, the white-on-white boutique is a fitting tribute to the architect’s minimalistic signature and offers the perfect blank canvas for Kane’s bubbling creativity

Model walking on the runway at London Fashion Week 2015 — **Eudon Choi**: Taking inspiration from Metabolism, the radical Japanese architectural movement, Eudon Choi sent models down the runway in bold geometries, kick flare trousers and structured silhouettes

Black clothing piece with 18 carat gold-plated buttons — **Marios Schwab**: The Greek-Austrian designer offered us an intimate sneak peak into his design process and the finer details of his A/W collection's 18 carat gold-plated buttons

Models posing in women's collection clothing — **Ports 1961:** The Canadian brand has a new creative director in Natasa Cagalj and a new London design studio within the building that formally housed cult magazine *The Face*. Cagalj, who was formally at Lanvin and Stella McCartney - at the latter she was head of design for seven years - began with Prefall and has since set a promising new precedent for the house with her fresh twist on contemporary tailoring for A/W. 'I have explored fabrics like chiffon and prints like leopard that I haven't touched for a while,' she smiles, 'playing with classically feminine materials and reworking them to make them cool'

Man posing at a life drawing class — **Molly Goddard:** Pleated Tulle smocks at Goddard's life drawing class

**La Perla**: The intimates brand celebrated the official launch of its Old Bond Street flagship store, designed by Italian Architect, Roberto Baciocchi with a presentation of their Atelier collection, originally shown during January's Paris Haute Couture. Do check out the speaker system in the change rooms that allows clients to exchange sizes discretely

Model posing in an english knotted, layered and embroidered familiar fabrics; shrimp net, tulle and velvet with a new naivety — **Phoebe English**: Reflecting on pervious collections, Phoebe English knotted, layered and embroidered familiar fabrics; shrimp net, tulle and velvet with a new naivety

Models walking n the runway at London Fashion Week 2015 — **David Koma**: A collection that closely contoured the body in sixties silhouettes was highlighted with leather applications, Macrame and ruffled cuffs and skirt hems

Scottish brand's Michael Clark film, commissioned to mark its bicentenary ahead of the its 'Fully Fashioned' exhibition

Pringle of Scotland: A preview of the Scottish brand's Michael Clark film, commissioned to mark its bicentenary ahead of the its 'Fully Fashioned' exhibition in Edinburgh this coming April

(Image credit: TBC)

Designed set by Wallpaper* contributor with models showcasing a collection — **Sophia Webster**: Sets designed by Wallpaper* contributor Shona Heath transported us to an alternate universe for Webster's 'Freak Like Me' collection

Model wearing a furry orange coat — **Shrimps**: This season Hannah Weiland trekked through Oz's Emerald City via the work of German artist Wilhelm Heinrich Otto Dix introducing a few tweed skirts and a Seventies palette for her signature faux furs along the way.

*Photography: Jamie Stoker*

Windows of the inside of a church — **Simone Rocha**: This designer has a habit of making a fashion show a religious experience

Luscious urban jungle — **1205:** Paula Gerbase chose the Barbican Centre's conservatory oasis, which transplanted us into a luscious urban jungle for her A/W show

Flowers with mountains in the background — **Prada:** Costume designer Arianne Phillips picked up 'The Iconoclasts' mantle in London with a 'cinematic dreamscape' of in-store installations that included this delightfully mossy purple planet

Canapés on a plate — **Prada**: Phillips' creative eye also extended to the canapés at Prada's London celebration

Ceilings of the Australia House — **Sass & Bide:** New creative director Anthony Cuthbertson makes his London Fashion Week debut under the vaulted ceilings of Australia House

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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.

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