Editor's picks from London Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

Editor’s picks from London Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

Fashion / 23 Feb 2015

Christopher Raeburn: Maintaining the Brit's fervour for utilising sustainable fabrics, this season Christopher Raeburn fashioned a parka from a decommissioned life raft, and a cape from a Danish military blanket. Femininity was found in his offering of skirts; slit above the knee and wrapped with chiffon swathes.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Joseph: The British brand's A/W show, staged within the basement of London's Brewer Street Car Park, made a stong case for the return of blanket dressing with this season's collection taking inspiration from artist and minimalist Robert Morris' work 'Felt'

KÉJI: Designer and Hong Kong native Katie Green was inspired by the recent 'Shunga' exhibition at the British Museum for her debut line that offered a modern tailored silhouette using premium Japanese denim

Anya Hindmarch: The designer's M25 motorway set had us in a trance like state, as the Brit unveiled her A/W collection adorned with graphic signage. For the first time Hindmarch also extended the collection to include knitwear and coats for the journey

Roksanda Ilincic: Knitted, raw hemmed and fur capped in a rich palette of burgundy, royal blue, orange, ochre and pink tones.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Mulberry: The British house looked to the Georgian interiors of old English homes utilising both Rococo and classical design elements for A/W. Fittingly a white colour palette dominated the season's architecturally tailored coats, as scarves were decorated with more literal cornices and ceiling mouldings

McQ: The house's winter campaign was captured by Wallpaper* contributor Harley Weir and was inspired by founder Alexander McQueen's time spent at friend and collaborator Isabella Blow's country estate

Peter Pilotto: The 'Snakes and Ladders'-inspired collection of Pilotto and Christopher De Vos.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Barbara Casasola: A tale of linear athleticism through ribbed knitwear and sunray pleated columns at Casasola's Phillips gallery presentation.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Lucas Nascimento: Beneath the simple silhouettes and bold floral patterns reminiscent of his native Brazil are the hidden intricacies of Lucas Nascimento's expertise in knitwear. His techniques; hand cut, cashmere backed inlayed and padded, bouclé and fil coupé.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Christopher Kane: After much ado, Christopher Kane has finally opened his first store on London’s Mount Street. Designed by John Pawson, the white-on-white boutique is a fitting tribute to the architect’s minimalistic signature and offers the perfect blank canvas for Kane’s bubbling creativity

Vivienne Westwood Red Label: Dame Viv's smudged war paint instantly conveyed her unwavering pugnacious attitude to traditional beauty ideals, instead delivering a characteristically chaotic collection with a strong current of menswear tailoring

Eudon Choi: Taking inspiration from Metabolism, the radical Japanese architectural movement, Eudon Choi sent models down the runway in bold geometries, kick flare trousers and structured silhouettes

Marios Schwab: The Greek-Austrian designer offered us an intimate sneak peak into his design process and the finer details of his A/W collection's 18 carat gold-plated buttons

Ports 1961: The Canadian brand has a new creative director in Natasa Cagalj and a new London design studio within the building that formally housed cult magazine The Face. Cagalj, who was formally at Lanvin and Stella McCartney - at the latter she was head of design for seven years - began with Prefall and has since set a promising new precedent for the house with her fresh twist on contemporary tailoring for A/W. 'I have explored fabrics like chiffon and prints like leopard that I haven't touched for a while,' she smiles, 'playing with classically feminine materials and reworking them to make them cool'

Molly Goddard: Pleated Tulle smocks at Goddard's life drawing class

La Perla: The intimates brand celebrated the official launch of its Old Bond Street flagship store, designed by Italian Architect, Roberto Baciocchi with a presentation of their Atelier collection, originally shown during January's Paris Haute Couture. Do check out the speaker system in the change rooms that allows clients to exchange sizes discretely

Phoebe English: Reflecting on pervious collections, Phoebe English knotted, layered and embroidered familiar fabrics; shrimp net, tulle and velvet with a new naivety

David Koma: A collection that closely contoured the body in sixties silhouettes was highlighted with leather applications, Macrame and ruffled cuffs and skirt hems

Pringle of Scotland: A preview of the Scottish brand's Michael Clark film, commissioned to mark its bicentenary ahead of the its 'Fully Fashioned' exhibition in Edinburgh this coming April

Sophia Webster: Sets designed by Wallpaper* contributor Shona Heath transported us to an alternate universe for Webster's 'Freak Like Me' collection

Shrimps: This season Hannah Weiland trekked through Oz's Emerald City via the work of German artist Wilhelm Heinrich Otto Dix introducing a few tweed skirts and a Seventies palette for her signature faux furs along the way.

Photography: Jamie Stoker

Simone Rocha: This designer has a habit of making a fashion show a religious experience

1205: Paula Gerbase chose the Barbican Centre's conservatory oasis, which transplanted us into a luscious urban jungle for her A/W show

Prada: Costume designer Arianne Phillips picked up 'The Iconoclasts' mantle in London with a 'cinematic dreamscape' of in-store installations that included this delightfully mossy purple planet

Prada: Phillips' creative eye also extended to the canapés at Prada's London celebration

Sass & Bide: New creative director Anthony Cuthbertson makes his London Fashion Week debut under the vaulted ceilings of Australia House

Editor’s picks from London Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

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