It is set to be a definitive fashion season: with stops in New York, London, Milan and Paris, over a dozen designers will make their debuts as creative directors of some of the industry’s most well-known houses, among them Chanel (Matthieu Blazy), Balenciaga (Pierpaolo Piccioli) and Bottega Veneta (Louise Trotter). Add to that numerous sophomore collections – from Sarah Burton’s Givenchy to Jonathan Anderson’s first womenswear collection for Dior – and the S/S 2026 season looks set to provide our most comprehensive view of the future of fashion in some time, following a turbulent couple of years defined by a merry-go-round of creative director departures and arrivals. With these upcoming collections, the industry looks to settle the ship.
In anticipation, and ahead of New York Fashion Week, which begins tomorrow (11 September 2025), we straw-polled the Wallpaper* style editors about their most anticipated moments of the month. And, while the blockbuster debuts appeared in everyone’s lists, there remains an appetite for the under-the-radar – from Talia Byre’s first runway show proper in London (contributing fashion writer Orla Brennan says she’s one of a handful of younger brands in the city ‘gaining momentum’) to Diotima in New York, where founder Rachel Scott hosts her own debut runway show, made all the more of an event after her recent appointment as creative director of Proenza Schouler.
Jason Hughes is Wallpaper’s fashion and creative director, overseeing all style content – from fashion and beauty to watches and jewellery – as well as leading the visual direction of the magazine.
‘While I am of course looking forward to the big-name debuts – I was a huge fan (and shopper) of Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta, so I’m excited to see his vision for Chanel – I am most intrigued by a more under-the-radar appointment, Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander. He takes over from Lucie and Luke Meier at the house, coming from Bally, where his (brief) tenure was full of great pieces – his collections took wardrobe archetypes and transformed them with satisfyingly strange, off-kilter details, from asymmetric hemlines to flourishes of faux fur. From the few hints that we’ve seen so far (and some rumours from Milan), Bellotti seems perfect for Jil Sander, looking to bring back the mood of reduction and rigour that defined the house’s namesake designs. He’s showing on Wednesday (24 September) in Milan – I’m excited to see what this new chapter brings.
‘In Paris – which is full of great shows this season – my eyes will be on Celine, where Michael Rider will show his sophomore collection for the house (and first on the ready-to-wear schedule). I was really impressed with his first show, which was held during haute couture week earlier this year, all the more so when I went to the re-see the next day – taken apart from the runway, it was full of fashion hits, especially the accessories. My favourite? A version of the house’s ‘Phantom’ bag, complete with a smiley zipper face.’
Michael Rider’s debut show for Celine, held during haute couture week earlier this year. Wallpaper* fashion and creative director Jason Hughes looks forward to the designer’s sophomore show in Paris
Jack Moss is Wallpaper’s fashion features editor, reporting for the magazine’s digital and print editions – from international runway shows to profiling the style world’s leading figures.
‘There’s an almost overwhelming onslaught of newness this fashion month – as Orla outlines below, 15 creative directors will make their debut over the month, many of them at fashion’s best-known houses. While I am of course excited to see what these debuts bring – Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel will no doubt be a highlight – there is plenty more to fashion month from designers both emerging and established. In New York, I’ve enjoyed recent collections from Eckhaus Latta – it feels like the American label has hit its stride again – while I’ll be travelling to Brooklyn for Rachel Scott’s debut runway show for her label Diotima, which has previously only shown via presentation (it will be all the more exciting after the announcement that she is the new creative director of Proenza Schouler, taking over from founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who are heading to Loewe). Scott is a testament to taking your time: she worked for over a decade in Milan for brands like Costume National before returning to the United States to start her label.
‘In London, Talia Byre will host her first full-scale runway show – at the magazine, we've been big fans of her work for some time – while Paolo Carzana, currently part of Sarabande, has made a name with thoughtful, craft-focused collections shown in unexpected locations (one was held in the garden of his own Hackney home; another in a tiny Farringdon pub). I’m looking forward to seeing where he chooses next. There’s of course plenty to look forward to in Milan and Paris – as ever, Prada will be my highlight in the former (I have been a dedicated fan for decades – few fashion houses have such consistently thought-provoking collections), while at the latter I look forward to Duran Lantink’s debut show for Jean Paul Gaultier (the Dutch designer’s collections under his now-paused eponymous label have been a highlight of recent seasons – he will no doubt carry this energy to his new role). Hopefully, after what has felt like some seasons of stasis in fashion, with creative director positions now filled and in motion, this will be the one where a new vision falls into place.’
Prada’s A/W 2025 womenswear show. For Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss, the show is always a highlight of the schedule
Orla Brennan is a London-based fashion and culture writer. At Wallpaper*, her ‘Uprising’ column is a monthly profile of the style world’s rising stars.
‘There’s a sense that this fashion month could be the most exciting in years, with no fewer than 15 creative directors unveiling their first collections. I expect the big house debuts will take up much of the conversation in the coming weeks, so I’d like to mention a few rising designers not to miss. In New York, FIT graduate Zane Li will stage his first runway show after two seasons of sharp, architectural collections under his label LII, until now presented only via lookbooks. Over in London, the perennial hub of fledgling talent, I’m most looking forward to seeing CSM graduate Oscar Ouyang’s off-kilter, earthy knits appearing on the runway as he joins the Newgen cohort.
‘It’s also nice to see designers with a few years under their belt gaining momentum. Talia Byre is joining the official schedule after hosting intimate shows in small London galleries and candlelit restaurants, and I’m looking forward to seeing whatever evolution of shadowy London cool Aaron Esh will likely produce this season. I’m also intrigued by the late-night spectacle Dilara Findikoglu is planning for Sunday – her invitation, a medieval brass choker with a lock and key, is the only (very on-brand) clue so far. As for the blockbuster shows, like everyone else, I’m curious to see what fresh ideas Matthieu Blazy will bring to Chanel. It’s the season’s closing event, and – with any luck – will be worth the wait.’
Talia Byre’s A/W 2025 collection. The designer will host her first large-scale fashion show after intimate presentations in previous seasons – for contributing fashion writer Orla Brennan, she is a name to watch
Based in Abruzzo, Italy, Scarlett Conlon is a regular contributor to Wallpaper’s fashion channel. Before relocating, she held roles as deputy fashion editor at The Guardian and Observer and news editor at British Vogue in London.
‘Despite Paris being the epicentre of designer debuts this season, the one I’m most excited to see is Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta in Milan. She’s been dropping hints as to what we can expect (see her first campaign pulling in collaborators of the house past and present) and so far, so very good in my opinion. Bottega has been one of the most influential fashion brands of the last decade under Daniel Lee and Matthieu Blazy and it’s fantastic to see a talent like Louise being handed the reigns. I have high hopes!’
Louis Trotter’s first Bottega Veneta campaign, which pulled in contributors past and present. She will show her first collection for the house in Milan this month – Milan contributor Scarlett Conlon’s most-anticipated moment of the month
The former beauty and grooming editor of Wallpaper*, New York-born Mary Cleary – a writer and consultant – now oversees the magazine’s beauty content as a contributor.
‘In terms of fashion, I’m a big fan of the south London-based label KNWLS, so it will be exciting to see what designers Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault have planned for their debut show in Milan – rumour has it that they are plotting something special.
‘There are bound to be plenty of outstanding beauty moments over the month – there's always great hair and make-up at Simone Rocha in London, Prada in Milan, and Dries Van Noten in Paris. But even more intriguing will be how the slew of new creative directors address beauty in their opening collections – Pierpaolo Piccioli had some incredible beauty looks while at Valentino (the Kaia Gerber bouffant, for example), something he’ll hopefully replicate at his new role at Balenciaga.
‘Finally, beauty will no doubt be central at Louis Vuitton – the house recently launched its ‘La Beauté’ beauty line, led by Pat McGrath. I’m sure the show – which takes place during fashion week – will have an impactful look to show off these incredible products, and maybe even tease a few upcoming additions to the line.’
Products from Louis Vuitton’s ‘La Beauté’ line. The recently launched make-up collection, led by Pat McGrath, will no doubt be front and centre of the house’s upcoming S/S 2026 show in Paris, says contributing beauty editor Mary Cleary
Stay tuned to Wallpaper.com for more from Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2026.
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