Juergen Teller reveals Robert Mapplethorpe's hidden side

Robert Mapplethorpe was a photographer of many hats. Up until the final exhibition he planned before his death in 1989, Mapplethorpe’s various photographic themes – from hardcore S&M to sensual floral still lifes and celebrity portraits – were always shown separately. At the time, Mapplethorpe explained that if the sex pictures were in the room, that’s all anyone would take away from the show.
Opening today in London at the Alison Jacques Gallery is photographer Juergen Teller’s take on the American artist’s work, in recognition of what would have been Mapplethorpe's 70th birthday. Though sexually explicit imagery abounds, the leather-bound characters synonymous with Mapplethorpe are barely present. Instead, we are offered Mapplethorpe as viewed through Teller’s eyes, the result of which is a delicate and more subtle play on the late photographer’s multiplicity.
’Pods’, 1985
Known for his candid images for fashion houses including Marc Jacobs and Céline, Teller first embraced Mapplethorpe’s work in his teenage bedroom, while listening to Patti Smith records. Having never before been interested in photography, Mapplethorpe’s 'direct and intimate' record cover image, 'opened up a whole new universe to me', Teller explains at the gallery just days before opening. When Teller later came to photography, he says, Mapplethorpe’s biographical honesty was never far away.
While Mapplethorpe's oeuvre is known for its brutal and often hardcore qualities, Teller’s juxtaposition is instead suggestive, playful and tender. A portrait of Arthur Diovanni – who is dressed in little other than very tight shorts – leans away from an academic study of documentary photographer Gisèle Freund; to her right stands a glossy and reverent still life of a loaf of bread.
'Cookie Mueller' 1978
As well as a host of sexually explicit works, Teller chose many lesser known images and was especially drawn to Mapplethorpe’s series of plates (as evinced in Shoes on Plates, a 1984 shot depicting a man standing on a pile of crockery). In Teller's native Germany, his name translates to ‘plate’ in English – and it is something of a signature for the photographer. 'Why is this guy standing on a stack of plates?' Teller wonders aloud. 'I mean, most people probably wouldn’t have chosen that in their collection.' Through its canny curation and exposition, 'Teller on Mapplethorpe' offers a portrait of two artists, intertwined.
Madeline Stowe, 1982
Apartment Window, 1977
Frogs, 1984
Michael Reed, 1987
Shoes on Plates, 1984
INFORMATION
’Teller on Mapplethorpe’ is on view until 7 January 2017. For more information, visit the Alison Jacques Gallery website
ADDRESS
Alison Jacques Gallery
Orwell House
16–18 Berners Street
London W1T 3LN
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
TELEPHONE
44.207 631 4720
-
Côte&Ciel’s new ‘Stratus’ bag collection captures the essence of a rain cloud
Coinciding with the launch of its A/W 2025 collection, the Parisian accessories company has partnered with architect Alberto Simoni and photographer Gabriele Rosati on a tactile installation turning bags into sculpture
-
Terence Woodgate and John Barnard create sculptural furniture from carbon fibre
Two legendary designers have brought the worlds of furniture and motorsport together with a celebration of carbon fibre’s structural and sculptural qualities
-
Explore the landscape of the future with Bas Smets
Landscape architect Bas Smets on the art, philosophy and science of his pioneering approach: ‘a site is not in a state of “being”, but in a constant state of “becoming”’
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the week
With the return of back-to-school, it's back to business for the Wallpaper* team, who’ve been making the rounds at fashion pop-ups and pavilion launches. Elsewhere, we’ve been indulging in new literature and old restaurants, and taking in a farewell exhibition at a landmark gallery...
-
From art to fashion, and back again: Jonathan Schofield’s figurative work is back in style
After graduating from London’s Royal College of Art, Jonathan Schofield began a career as a creative director at Stella McCartney. Now, he has returned to his first love, painting
-
Watch: artist Shezad Dawood lights up The Gaumont, King’s Road’s creatively focused new hub
In our short film, meet the artist, see his new work in the making, and discover more about The Gaumont
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the week
Here in the UK, summer seems to be fading fast. Moody skies and showers called for early-autumn rituals for the Wallpaper* team: retreating into the depths of the Tate Modern, slipping into shadowy cocktail bars, and curling up with a good book
-
‘A Single Man’ is now a ballet – we go behind the design
As ‘A Single Man’ is presented by The Royal Ballet and Factory International in London, here’s how its set designer brought protagonist George’s inner and outer worlds to life on stage
-
Artists imbue the domestic with an unsettling unfamiliarity at Hauser & Wirth
Three artists – Koak, Ding Shilun and Cece Philips – bring an uncanny subversion to the domestic environment in Hauser & Wirth’s London exhibition
-
Inside the fight to keep an iconic Barbara Hepworth sculpture in the UK
‘Sculpture with Colour’ captures a pivotal moment in Hepworth’s career. When it was sold to an overseas buyer, UK institutions launched a campaign to keep it in the country
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the week
Another week, another flurry of events, opening and excursions showcasing the best of culture and entertainment at home and abroad. Catch our editors at Scandi festivals, iconic jazz clubs, and running the length of Manhattan…