Gallery
Prada, Spring/Summer '08
Prada
Miuccia Prada had already won us over when we saw the Prada show venue, decked out by Rem Koolhaass Office for Metropolitan Architecture or OMA, as a labyrinth from a proper Giardino Italiano or Italian Garden. We sat on green foam cubes arranged in a maze within a high fence. Beyond our enclosure on the walls were projected engineered images of a classical maze made of box cut hedges. The models walked among us, and were only prevented from getting lost thanks to large arrows painted on the raw concrete floor.
The wool suits that opened the show introduced new proportions for Prada with long and slender jackets and pants with a longer and wider leg that contrasted sharply to the short cropped pant that Mrs Prada has been championing for the last couple of seasons. They were severe, unadorned and shown with that Prada staple; fine gauge knits in grey and black (it was predominately a dark show quite notable for spring summer). Closer inspection at Prada is key, and that revealed that, like last season, fabric development was a key creating direction, as the cloth was super lightweight. Shirts that morphed into jackets were something between the two (a tunic maybe?), mandarin collared short-sleeved shirts, sweaters that unbuttoned on the one side and neat boiler suits were garments borrowed from the girls: as last season, Prada blurred the line between what is considered masculine and feminine.
Things got even more interesting when colour and pattern were introduced, in the form of botanical prints and specially developed jacquards usually used for ties. This is an area that Prada visited several years ago, yet this time it was the mix of colour, pattern and scale that stood out especially when combined with the leather trimmed velvet sandals.