The grooming trends that defined Paris Fashion Week S/S 2014

Sarah Burton's girls at Alexander McQueen looked like beautiful sculptures, their heads concealed under a golden helmet, their hairlines sprayed in black paint

Alexander McQueen: Sarah Burton's girls at Alexander McQueen looked like beautiful sculptures, their heads concealed under a golden helmet, their hairlines sprayed in black paint. Make-up artist Peter Phillips further contributed to the look with a veneer complexion finished with bleached brows. Writer Rosa Bertoil

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd Evans)

By Jack Moss

last updated 19 October 2022

**Chanel:** Karl Lagerfeld's art theme was magnified by make-up artist Peter Philips, who used the house's vibrant colour palettes to create a graphic design on each girl's lids and beyond. Sam McKnight then gave all the models' matching bobs with a short fringe and blunt straightened locks.

**Valentino:** The Medieval nods at Valentino were picked up by Guido Palau and Pat McGrath in an almost religious look. Hair was centre parted and pulled back into a low ponytail to accommodate the stamped tiaras, while faces had a luscious glow with minimal colour and a hint of blush on eyes and lips.

**Acne Studios:** Spring at Acne called for eyebrows that were either bleached to invisibility, or heightened into a thick band depending on models' hair colour. Equally as jarring were the girls' short and messy fringes that matched the casual attitude of Johnny Johansson's show.

**Akris:** Oversized conical straw hats graced the girls' heads at Akris, sitting atop Diane Kendal's luminous, natural faces

**Chloe:** Spring brought another effortless season at Chloe. Stylist James Pecis gave the hair a smooth, straight look, perfectly co-ordinating with Diane Kendal's 'fresh, beautiful summer skin'.

**Dior:** This season the faces of Dior were awash with a golden glow, dominated by a thick layer of paint smothered thickly along eyebrows – the shining glory of Pat McGrath's otherwise uniformed complexions. Guido Palau then tousled damp hair back into small, low chignons.

Carole Colombani created a simple, sophisticated hairdo with a pulled back mini-tail whereas — **Hermès:** Odile Gilbert's look for Hermès played on perfectly proportioned hues: the glowing bronze on the eyelids, the matte blush on the cheeks and a touch of pink gloss on lips. Carole Colombani created a simple, sophisticated hairdo with a pulled back mini-tail.

Anthony Turner pulled the hair into a sleek side parting at Kenzo, glued to the head and falling into small waves whereas Aaron de Mey contributed to the otherworldly look with a white line on the eyes — **Kenzo:** Anthony Turner pulled the hair into a sleek side parting at Kenzo, glued to the head and falling into small waves. Aaron de Mey contributed to the otherworldly look with a white line on the eyes, representing a wave to work in with the Californian theme of the collection.

**Louis Vuitton:** Marc Jacobs' last show for Louis Vuitton will be fondly remembered for many reasons, one of them being Stephen Jones' flamboyant black feathered headdresses. Pat McGrath's work on the faces had a similarly sophisticated funereal feel, with thick black brows and light luminous touches to the paled skin.

**Margiela:** The mix-and-match Maison Martin Margiela collection was accompanied by a casual hairdo crafted by Guido Palau with wet, unbrushed locks fixed with a bar behind the head. Peter Philips then left faces untouched, apart from the eyebrows, which he drew into thick black lines.

The look at Moncler was au naturel. Orlando Pita gave the hair a beautiful wavy appearance, while Val Garland recreated the effortless, healthy look of a girl — **Moncler Gamme Rouge:** The look at Moncler was *au naturel*. Orlando Pita gave the hair a beautiful wavy appearance, while Val Garland recreated the effortless, healthy look of a girl who had just been 'relaxing in a spa'.

**Roland Mouret:** Orlando Pita pulled back wet hair, fixing it to one side with a set of golden bars, as Val Garland's 'early 1990s' fresh look focused on thin black-lined eyes.

**Stella McCartney:** Pat McGrath drew a perfectly discreet cat eye at Stella McCartney, as Eugene Souleiman recreated a 1960s vibe with hair that was neatly side-parted into a ponytail if long, or left natural and boyish if short.

**Vionnet:** Spring's minimally coloured collection was juxtaposed with Tom Pecheux's bright hues that coloured the models' lids in a vigorous line. Luigi Murenu's casual hair was rolled up into faux dreadlocks for a textured effect.

**Neil Barrett:** The hairdos at Neil Barrett were sleek and tidy in contrast with the slightly wilder spiky eyebrows that gave the make-up free girls an artfully messy look

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Fashion

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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