At the Musée des Arts décoratifs in Paris, the legacy of designer Jean Schlumberger is currently in the process of being future-proofed. In partnership with The Tiffany Archives, the French cultural institution has set to (where needed) restore, conserve and digitally capture roughly 5,000 drawings and a further 5,000 archival documents. Among them are Schlumberger’s sketches for Bird on a Rock gems – the maison’s winged mascot since tastemaker Babe Paley acquired the first of its kind in 1965 – and personal ephemera such as a paper notecard received from his friend Christian Dior. Alongside them sits Schlumberger’s book of collaged press clippings.
Jean Schlumberger's sketch for his important Tulip necklace, realised by Tiffany & Co. in yellow gold and diamonds
'His creative process was quite extraordinary,' says Tiffany & Co. chief gemmologist Victoria Reynolds. 'It's like stepping into the mind of a genius.' A genre-defining designer, Schlumberger dreamt up his creations on paper, before they evolved into three-dimensional small treasures, realised in partnership with craftspeople including a modelmaker and a gemmologist. 'You can see his way of thinking. You can understand his process,' says Reynolds.
Jean Schlumberger's sketch for a Tiffany & Co. enamel bangle
Schlumberger, previously a maker of visually striking buttons for Elsa Schiaparelli, had been operating his own jewellery salon for about ten years when, in 1965, Tiffany & Co. president Walter Hoving asked him to design for the marquee brand. Given creative carte blanche, Schlumberger brought colour to Tiffany & Co., in the form of vibrant gemstones stored in the company’s fabled safe, alongside humour and whimsy. Exotic birds, sea creatures, flora and fauna – all lend shape to precious gems in Schlumberger’s sketches. Jackie Kennedy fell for Schlumberger’s work, as did many others, including Bunny Melon and Elizabeth Taylor.
Jean Schlumberger's sketch for a Bird on a Rock brooch.
The preservation project ensures that Schlumberger’s world – not only the finished jewels, but the ideas and experiments behind them – remains accessible to future generations. In doing so, Tiffany & Co. and the Musée des Arts décoratifs are keeping his imagination alive as a resource for future creatives.