Order of the day: Pomellato’s high jewellery takes us from dawn to dusk
Pomellato’s new high jewellery collection, La Gioia, tells the story of a day in precious stones
The course of a day is traced in Pomellato’s new high jewellery collection, La Gioia. The collection, divided into seven chapters, begins with sunrise and rain storms, taking us through to sunset and shadows drawn in precious stones.
The first part, Secrets of the Rising Sun, marks Pomellato’s first flirtation with a softer silhouette, with the baroque forms of moonstones and aquamarine strung onto the distinctive Iconica chain, while proportions are also playful in Summer Storm with a juxtaposition of differently-sized stones. White South Sea and grey Tahitian pearls make a sensual foil for spinels, sapphires and white diamonds in suspended sautoirs; in earrings, they are a textured waterfall.
Gems in 24 shades form a rainbow of colour in the next chapter which celebrates the calm after the storm, while the golden hour of midday which follows is drawn in contemporary gold oblong links edged in diamonds. The centre stones, hanging from their rose gold cable links, are oversized and faceted in a nod to the drama of high noon.
The warmth of rose gold is carried through in Into the Sunset, encapsulated in amber beads and a rare Melo pearl. A necklace, intricately embellished with bamboo leaf openwork, is rethought in a pair of earrings, while mandarin garnet cabochon, brown diamonds and orange sapphires build on romantic autumnal hues.
The final two chapters look to the dark side, with Evening Shadows interspersing diamond-set links with rock crystal on a white gold necklace, while a flower in gold wire hangs from a diamond-studded chain. A play on light defines Discoveries in the Darkness, with white and black diamond pavé composed of over 1,400 stones and jet pendants dangling from a cord necklace imbuing jewels with a sharp modernity.
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.
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