From the vault: Bonhams’ Jean Ghika on how to collect mid-century jewels

Bonhams kicked off its international jewellery auctions season in London last week, when its star gem – a Fancy Intense Blue diamond – sold for £2.32m. But it was the rare cache of prime pieces from the 1960s and 70s among the 125 lots that caught our eye. Jean Ghika, UK and Europe head of jewellery at Bonhams, tells us about the growing trend for collecting mid-century gems:
The provenance
Historically, jewellery has been a form of wearable adornment but today it is increasingly considered as an art form in its own right. Modern and contemporary designers appeal to collectors who wish to build a collection of jewellery as they might build a collection of contemporary art. In that respect, design-led jewels have a value over and above the intrinsic value of the component parts. In the auction market, therefore, interest tends to concentrate on designers who have an established and existing following, such as Andrew Grima – the Italian jeweller who had London society of the 1960s and 70s in thrall. That said, if you are looking to start a collection now, it’s worth remembering that not all pieces at auction are signed by specific makers and, as long as they are good quality and have a strong design element, they are worth collecting.
Andrew Grima gold, diamond and emerald openwork ‘Textured Wire’ bracelet, c.1968
The design details
On sale in London last week were original pieces by Andrew Grima. Grima pieces are always sought after because their sculptural, organic forms and flamboyant scale and style represented a departure from the more structured jewels of the previous decades. The 'Textured Wire' bracelet (estimate £15,000 – £20,000) is a great example of Grima’s work. Created in 1968, it is composed of linear gold rods set at varying levels, with emerald and diamond accents adding colour and reflection.
The ‘Dice’ ring (estimate £4,000 – £6,000), though not attributed to any designer, has a distinct charm. Its bold colour combinations of turquoise, malachite, coral and lapis lazuli are resonant of the cocktail era of the 1950s. The diamonds add a fine, precious touch.
A cache of current-era Hemmerle pieces was also on offer. Designs by the German house can be deceptively simple in design, but each is engineered to perfection to ensure they sit perfectly on the ear or hand, while displaying the subtle tonal differences in the brown, orange and yellow diamonds to best advantage (estimates from £4000 – £15,000).
Hemmerle pendant earrings, with 5.85 carats of orange-brown, brilliant-cut diamonds and moonstone drops totaling 87 carats, c. early 2000s
The signs of the times
Perhaps modern-era pieces are just being being appreciated more now because strong handmade design pieces tend to stand out. Also, very often they are unique one-offs that were produced in very small numbers, which is always an attractive element for collectors.
The now factor
The chance to bid for gems online at live auctions has made it easier than ever before to start collecting, as you can join in from anywhere and you don’t need to be in the sale room.
Andrew Grima gold and diamond articulated bracelet with carved emeralds and cabochon sapphires, c.1973
Hemmerle ring, pave set with 5.5 carats of orange-brown, brilliant-cut diamonds, c.2002
Hemmerle hooped ear clips, with 19.75 carats of pavé-set orange-brown, brilliant-cut diamonds, c. early 2000s
Emerald and diamond cluster ring, with undulating border of tapered baguette-cut diamonds of a total of 4 carats
Jean Ghika, head of jewellery for Bonhams UK and Europe, photographed at the Lifschutz Davidson Sandilands-designed Bonhams London HQ
INFORMATION
Bonhams’ New York Fine Jewellery auction takes place on 14 October. For more information, visit the Bonhams website
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
Having worked as a journalist and editor for titles such as British Vogue, Vanity Fair and the Daily Telegraph, Caragh McKay became Wallpaper Watches & Jewellery Director in 2012, before branching out a few years later as an independent creative director in the luxury arena.
-
Miami Art Week 2023: the must-sees
Miami Art Week 2023 is underway. Let us guide you through the maze of must-sees, at Art Basel Miami Beach and beyond
By Maria Sobrino Published
-
Cartainers are the ultimate in automotive display and transportation
The Ceres 001 Founders Edition Cartainer is a mobile display cabinet for cars that need an extra level of cossetting
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Hotel August offers a modern-day sanctuary in Antwerp's Green District
Hotel August is a former Augustinian convent quirkily reimagined by Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal pieces
A host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a moment
We've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Eternity rings for the modern couple
Eternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
By Hannah Silver Published
-
A treasure trove of Freddie Mercury’s personal effects goes under the hammer
Ahead of Sotheby’s Freddie Mercury auction, the eclectic collection of 1,200 lots, including one-off jewellery pieces, is on show in London
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Vast Swatch auction includes collaborations with Keith Haring, Philip Glass and Vivienne Westwood
LAMA’s Swatch auction of artist Esther Montagner’s collection sees over 600 pieces go under the hammer
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Alternative engagement rings with an edge
As the sales of engagement rings sky-rocket during lockdown, enjoy our off-kilter curation of edgy and unconventional engagement rings
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Hair jewellery to covet and collect
Today’s hair jewellery is both practical and pretty. We're pinning our hopes on these simple and elegant accessories
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
CryptoPunks come to life on Tiffany & Co pendants
Tiffany & Co has partnered with blockchain infrastructure company Chain to create custom pendants and NFTiffs
By Hannah Silver Last updated