Jean Nouvel’s 53W53 tower inspires a titanium necklace
Anna Hu’s Sky Tower Jadeite necklace links Western and Eastern culture in an architecturally imposing tribute

The distinctive silhouette of Jean Nouvel’s 53W53 tower – which is soon to be the new residence and home studio for Anna Hu’s eponymous jewellery brand – is already inspiring the New York-based jeweller.
Hu has just unveiled the Sky Tower Jadeite necklace in titanium, which translates the tower’s structural core into a geometric pattern of triangles which curve around the neck. ‘Titanium not only interprets the shiny exterior of the building, but also provides more flexibility in terms of coloring,’ explains Hu. ‘We can anodise titanium and get interesting colours – for example, the green colour shows off the beautiful imperial jadeite in the center.’
The resilient nature of titanium presented a host of challenges; as it can’t be soldered, stone setting proved laborious: ‘The casting of it would require industrial capability due to the extremely high fusion temperature. The prototype has to be done by CAD (computer aided design), before it is cast in titanium. I’m very grateful to have this exceptional French atelier who works with me and is capable of making this happen.’
The necklace links Western art with Eastern culture, pairing the contemporary lines of the core with the exceptional imperial jadeite at its centre. ‘It is the ultimate Chinese culture representation with its auspicious animal carving,’ says Hu. Despite its size, wearability is at the epicentre of her design, and the jadeite pendant can be detached and worn as a brooch. Like the necklace itself, its shape – which references the shields of the ancient Chinese Royal Army and the symbolic protection they offered – is rife in cultural references.
Comfort is also a key factor in the wearing of the necklace: ‘I work with my atelier to make sure the necklace is light enough on the neck,’ adds Hu. ‘The curves of the necklace must meet the organic lines from neck to shoulder of the wearer so that it can be worn comfortably. Functionality and aesthetics can harmoniously co-exist.’
INFORMATION
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
-
Caribbean cool meets mid-century glamour at this new LA hotspot
From golden mirrored chambers to jerk-spiced tomahawk steaks, Lucia reimagines Afro-Caribbean dining and design
-
Tour this fire-resilient minimalist weekend retreat in California
A minimalist weekend retreat was designed as a counterpoint to a San Francisco pied-à-terre; Edmonds + Lee Architects’ Amnesia House in Napa Valley is a place for making memories
-
Love, community, anti-gay laws: the queer African artists redefining visibility through portraits
In honour of Pride Month, Ugonnaora Owoh speaks to three artists on African queer legacies and their optimism in advocating for queer rights through art
-
All eyes on Greek jewellery brand Lito as it launches bold new amulets to mark its 25 years
Striking amulets, seductive stones and secret messages characterise Lito's striking new anniversary collection, an extension of its ‘Tu es Partout’ series
-
The best layering necklaces for an elevated yet casual look
How to mix, match and stack jewellery for the ultimate high-energy, low-effort style
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windows
Four British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden Hour
Late summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hit
What started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to know
These independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal pieces
A host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a moment
We've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results