The distinctive silhouette of Jean Nouvel’s 53W53 tower – which is soon to be the new residence and home studio for Anna Hu’s eponymous jewellery brand – is already inspiring the New York-based jeweller.
Hu has just unveiled the Sky Tower Jadeite necklace in titanium, which translates the tower’s structural core into a geometric pattern of triangles which curve around the neck. ‘Titanium not only interprets the shiny exterior of the building, but also provides more flexibility in terms of coloring,’ explains Hu. ‘We can anodise titanium and get interesting colours – for example, the green colour shows off the beautiful imperial jadeite in the center.’
The resilient nature of titanium presented a host of challenges; as it can’t be soldered, stone setting proved laborious: ‘The casting of it would require industrial capability due to the extremely high fusion temperature. The prototype has to be done by CAD (computer aided design), before it is cast in titanium. I’m very grateful to have this exceptional French atelier who works with me and is capable of making this happen.’
The necklace links Western art with Eastern culture, pairing the contemporary lines of the core with the exceptional imperial jadeite at its centre. ‘It is the ultimate Chinese culture representation with its auspicious animal carving,’ says Hu. Despite its size, wearability is at the epicentre of her design, and the jadeite pendant can be detached and worn as a brooch. Like the necklace itself, its shape – which references the shields of the ancient Chinese Royal Army and the symbolic protection they offered – is rife in cultural references.
Comfort is also a key factor in the wearing of the necklace: ‘I work with my atelier to make sure the necklace is light enough on the neck,’ adds Hu. ‘The curves of the necklace must meet the organic lines from neck to shoulder of the wearer so that it can be worn comfortably. Functionality and aesthetics can harmoniously co-exist.’
INFORMATION
-
A complete collection of Phaidon’s ‘Contemporary Artists Series’ is on display in LondonA 30-year project reaching 100 volumes is being celebrated with an exhibition at the 45 Park Lane hotel, including limited-edition works by Kaws and Dana Schutz
-
Dressing for pleasure: why this season is all about a ‘raw glamour’For A/W 2025, designers reimagined tropes of glamour, luxury and femininity in subversive style
-
Reuters presents the 500 most impactful photographs of the last 40 years in a new book'In the Moment: 40 Years of Reuters Photojournalism,' published by Thames & Hudson', celebrates an era of iconic photography
-
All eyes on Greek jewellery brand Lito as it launches bold new amulets to mark its 25 yearsStriking amulets, seductive stones and secret messages characterise Lito's striking new anniversary collection, an extension of its ‘Tu es Partout’ series
-
The best layering necklaces for an elevated yet casual lookHow to mix, match and stack jewellery for the ultimate high-energy, low-effort style
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a momentWe've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
-
Eternity rings for the modern coupleEternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
