Agmes’ Surrealist-inspired jewels are bang up to date

Bracelet and Brooch on display — Man Ray bracelet, left, and Dali brooch, right (Image credit: agmesnyc.com)

Surrealist symbols hold an enduring appeal for Morgan and Jaclyn Solomon, the sisters behind New York-based jewellery brand Agmes. Their new collection of jewels explores the ambiguity of the human hand, a particular fascination of surrealists, who explored it abstractly as a symbol of both tenderness and terror.

The influence of Salvador Dalí and Man Ray is clear to see in the oversized proportions and slyly humorous design ticks of the sisters’ designs. Hands cast in sterling silver and yellow gold dangle from brooches, or cling mischievously onto earlobes, while globular pearls sway. On necklaces, thick ropes of irregularly sized pearls tease a hand waving ‘hello’ – when framed against graphic links of sterling silver, its meaning distorts again.

Adding to the magical mood, Dutch photographer Paul Kooiker’s eerie images capture the jewellery in sepia tones. ‘The hand can signify so many different things, and we decided to examine what the Agmes hand would look like to us. As female artists who work with our hands, ultimately, it symbolizes strength.’

Necklace and earing on display — Rita bracelet and necklace, left, and Rita earring, right

agmes jewellery — Emmanuelle earrings, left, and Dion necklace, right

INFORMATION
agmesnyc.com

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Hannah Silver is a writer and editor with over 20 years of experience in journalism, spanning national newspapers and independent magazines. Currently Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles for print and digital, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury since joining in 2019.