Glittering bizarre: Agmes’ surrealist jewellery gains the upper hand
The mischievous designs of New York jewellers Morgan and Jaclyn Solomon take a Dalí-esque turn, with a soupçon of Man Ray along the way
Surrealist symbols hold an enduring appeal for Morgan and Jaclyn Solomon, the sisters behind New York-based jewellery brand Agmes. Their new collection of jewels explores the ambiguity of the human hand, a particular fascination of surrealists, who explored it abstractly as a symbol of both tenderness and terror.
The influence of Salvador Dalí and Man Ray is clear to see in the oversized proportions and slyly humorous design ticks of the sisters’ designs. Hands cast in sterling silver and yellow gold dangle from brooches, or cling mischievously onto earlobes, while globular pearls sway. On necklaces, thick ropes of irregularly sized pearls tease a hand waving ‘hello’ – when framed against graphic links of sterling silver, its meaning distorts again.
Adding to the magical mood, Dutch photographer Paul Kooiker’s eerie images capture the jewellery in sepia tones. ‘The hand can signify so many different things, and we decided to examine what the Agmes hand would look like to us. As female artists who work with our hands, ultimately, it symbolizes strength.’
Rita bracelet and necklace, left, and Rita earring, right
Emmanuelle earrings, left, and Dion necklace, right
INFORMATION
agmesnyc.com
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.
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