It wouldn’t be a Margiela show if most of the runway looks were not seemingly missing half of themselves. Let’s take the ankle-length column skirt, for example. Here, the left side of the skirt had been cut away to leave just a sensual sliver of fabric covering one leg as piously as a nun, while leaving the other sinfully exposed. That same skirt came with the back pockets constructed like a pair of men’s tailored pants (button holes and all) plus an apron-like tie front. Confused? Don’t be. Ever since the brand's namesake designer Martin Margiela left his label, the company has been in the safe hands of a design team that knows how to dabble in its founder’s crazy creative pranks without losing practicality. Most of this collection was in fact decidedly wearable. There were patchwork jacquard jackets, wrap skirts and sharp men’s jackets. As for the nostalgic daisy motif that was printed onto sheer chiffons, painted onto sturdy leathers and pierced through the models’ ears — well, that only added a layer of sweetness to soften all of that traditionally hard Margiela tailoring.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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The return of the bullhead: the watch design that refuses to conformLittle known outside of watch circles, but enthusiastically collected within them, bullhead watches have always been divisive. Identified by the crown at 12 o’clock, it made design sense – no digging into the wrist, allowing easier function as a stopwatch - but remains a speciality. But now, the bullhead is back
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Tour Peridot, Hong Kong’s hypnotic new barLocated on the 38th floor of The Henderson, Studio Paolo Ferrari’s latest project is a study in ‘light, refraction, and intimacy’
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Lighting designer Andi Watson on creating Mitski’s sculptural stage for 'The Land'In Mitski’s live show and new concert film, a single beam of light becomes her dance partner. Lighting designer Andi Watson discusses turning shadow, movement and restraint into the architecture of feeling
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Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
