Kyirisan, Washington DC, USA
1924 8th St NW
- 1. 202 525 2383
- Amber Frederiksen
Since opening the first of his three restaurants in Virginia in 2009, chef Tim Ma has been steadily refining his technique for an appreciative following. The good news is that he’s now crossed the Potomac for his first outpost in Washington, DC’s Shaw District.
Kyirisan is a tasteful and tasty distillation of Ma’s Chinese heritage and training at The French Culinary Institute. Which is to say the menu is recognisably Chinese in its ingredients and DNA, but overlaid with mod slash Gallic touches of sous vide, concasse, and confit.
To set the stage, GrizForm Design Architects have orchestrated a 2,500 sqft space that’s bordered with stone tables, geometric installations that throw corners into unexpected three dimensional forms, oak and walnut wall panels, and bronze conical lights.
On the menu, Ma caters for the gastronomically adventurous by way of 0ffal salad comprising braised tendon, cubes of chicken heart and duck confit atop a bed of tomatoes and Thai basil swathed with a tamarind vinaigrette; and more assured crowd-pleasers like a veal short rib paired with smashed garlic confit, pepper and Chinese BBQ sauce, and an intriguing veal marrow infused with XO sauce and bay leaf crumble.
The adventurousness of the menu is rounded off with the classic sesame ball plated with honey ricotta ice cream and pineapple compote.