For the sophomore outlet of his Leadenhall diner, Jonathan Recanati lucked out when he commissioned Biasol for the project, the Melbourne-based studio performing a feat of cultural reading that is beguiling in its subtlety and striking in its modernity.
Farmer J’s location in London’s Square Mile next to Monument station also means the all-day diner is fast becoming the neighbourhood’s go-to spot for rush-hour joes and snacks, and pre-prandial cocktails, with congestion eased by two entrances, two bars and clear directional signage for pick-ups and payment.
Apparently, Recanati’s Israeli background informs much of the interiors as Biasol quietly embedded semaphores of Tel Aviv’s architecture, cuisine, and handmade traditions. This explains the slanted asymmetrical placement of subway tiles, green hues, hand rendered cloudy grey concrete walls, and half-dowel timber battens.
The Israeli-influenced menu is a crowd-pleaser ranging from roasted za’atar salmon to miso chicken sauced with yuzu ponzu. For office drones working through the weekend, the Saturday brunch menu features unusually varied vegetarian options such as grilled cauliflower steak, aubergine and green tahini, alongside grilled cheese toasties heated with harissa, freekeh salads and piles of laffa. The cocktails menu is equally intriguing, not least the ‘Jerusalem’, a potent blend of arak and pink grapefruit, and a cucumber kombucha.
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