Sex, fashion and disco: forgotten footage of 1970s New York uncovered

Left, campaign for Hudson Stocking, Germany, late 1960s. Right, Antonio’s hybrid of 1920s fashion with a 1970s attitude
Left, campaign for Hudson Stocking, Germany, late 1960s. Right, Antonio’s hybrid of 1920s fashion with a 1970s attitude revolutionised by the fashion industryFrom Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission
(Image credit: © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012.)

Against a nationwide tapestry of hardening politics, war, and intensifying race relations, 1970s New York rebelled with artistic, and sexual, abandon. A riotous new film shines a hazy spotlight on the era’s key arbiters of style: wildly seductive fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, his partner Juan Ramos, and later in Paris, Karl Lagerfeld.

Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco starts in 1960s Lower Manhattan – a melting pot of creative talent, inclusive of disparate creative camps that cut a broad swathe through culture. Lopez’ days were spent working feverishly to create the latest looks, while nights were spent writhing at Max’s Kansas City, Hotel Chelsea and Club Sept with his bevy of charismatic beauties (Grace Jones, Jessica Lange, Jerry Hall) until dawn.

The feature length documentary charts a moment where the demimonde — homosexuality, club life and blurred gender lines — rises in a euphoric push, out of the club and onto the catwalk. Its driven by the nostalgic beat of Donna Summer, Chic and the Temptations, Marvin Gaye, and Curtis Mayfield.

‘I became fascinated with Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos through Interview magazine when I was a young teenager in rural Indiana,’ explains director James Crump. ‘Their magical lives and milieu aroused me no end and made me fantasise about the early 1970s in New York and Paris – a period I was too young to experience.’

In 1997, Crump met Paul Caranicas, Lopez’s and Ramos’s heir who has since given him unlimited access to many thousands of drawings, photographs and 8mm and 16mm footage. Offering never before seen footage, interviews and imagery, the film documents a transformative journey that Lopez and Ramos took in 1969 to Paris – itself in the midst of radical social and cultural change. Ostensibly visiting to sketch the latest collections by the fashion house, Chloe, they become fast friends with a lithe young Lagerfeld, forming an improbable, yet long-lasting, friendship.

Photography of a young Karl Lagerfeld, 1970, taken by Antonio Lopez

Karl Lagerfeld, Paris, 1970.©  The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012

(Image credit: Photography: Antonio Lopez.)

It was the dawn of the age of the rock star fashion designer. Today, the Seventies are often looked back on as the halcyon days of ultimate, creative freedom, decadence, and sexual promiscuity before the black cloud of AIDS rumbled over.

Even with all we’ve learnt in the half century since Lopez’ prominence, the archival footage is just as relevant and prescient today. ‘Given the elements of race, ethnicity and sexuality that Antonio injected into fashion – a Puerto Rican-born, Bronx-raised bisexual – the film needed to be produced now at a moment when Latino, African-American and LGBTQ rights and issues are still being contested and under represented in dominant media and culture,’ says Crump. ‘Antonio envisioned what the future could look like. He is an ideal emblem of freedom and attainability worth remembering, especially now in the current post-election malaise.’

Jane Forth and Antonio Lopez, Carnegie Hall studios, New York

Jane Forth and Antonio Lopez, Carnegie Hall studios, New York, 1970. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission

(Image credit: Photography: Juan Ramos.)

Japanese magazine (Patti D’Arbanville), early 1970s and an early 1970s Japanese magazine

Left, Japanese magazine (Patti D’Arbanville), early 1970s. Right, Japanese magazine, early 1970s.  From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission

(Image credit: © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012.)

Left, Tina Chow, 1971. Right, Antonio Lopez, Paris, 1970

Left, Tina Chow, 1971. Right, Antonio Lopez, Paris, 1970. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission

(Image credit: Photography: Antonio Lopez)

Juan Ramos at the Carnegie Hall studio, New York City, 1969

Juan Ramos at the Carnegie Hall studio, New York City, 1969.  From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission

(Image credit: © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012.)

Left, Loulou de la Falaise, Paris, 1977. Right, Juan Ramos and Karl Lagerfeld, Saint-Tropez, 1973

Left, Loulou de la Falaise, Paris, 1977. Right, Juan Ramos and Karl Lagerfeld, Saint-Tropez, 1973. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission

(Image credit: Photography: Antonio Lopez. )

Karl Lagerfeld, Saint-Tropez, 1970

Karl Lagerfeld, Saint-Tropez, 1970. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission

(Image credit: Photography: Juan Ramos.)

Corey Tippin, Donna Jordan and Antonio Lopez, Saint-Tropez, 1973

Corey Tippin, Donna Jordan and Antonio Lopez, Saint-Tropez, 1973. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission

(Image credit: Photography: Juan Ramos. )

Antonio Lopez, Corey Tippin and Donna Jordan, Saint-Tropez, 1970

Antonio Lopez, Corey Tippin and Donna Jordan, Saint-Tropez, 1970. © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission

(Image credit: Photography: Juan Ramos. )

Artwork for Brigitte Bardot Interview magazine cover, April 1975

Artwork for Brigitte Bardot Interview magazine cover, April 1975. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump. Used by permission

(Image credit: © The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012.)

INFORMATION

Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco is at cinemas and on demand from 6 April, and playing at BFI Flare on 30 - 31 March 2018. For more information, visit the James Crump website (opens in new tab)

Elly Parsons is the Digital Editor of Wallpaper*, where she oversees Wallpaper.com and its social platforms. She has been with the brand since 2015 in various roles, spending time as digital writer – specialising in art, technology and contemporary culture – and as deputy digital editor. She was shortlisted for a PPA Award in 2017, has written extensively for many publications, and has contributed to three books. She is a guest lecturer in digital journalism at Goldsmiths University, London, where she also holds a masters degree in creative writing. Now, her main areas of expertise include content strategy, audience engagement, and social media.