Fashion’s finest moments at Frieze Week 2019
It’s not just the art world that descends on Regents Park in Central London for Frieze’s annual contemporary art fair (3 – 6 October). The fashion world too has a roster of initiatives, installations and immersive projects that coincide with Frieze’s opening. Here we present our not-to-be-missed unions from the art and fashion world. Start plotting your sartorial route (and your outfits) now…
‘This project was developed to amplify the practices of other UK artists of colour,’ explains Theaster Gates, of the concept behind the third iteration of Prada Mode, a travelling member’s club which featured at Art Basel: Miami Beach in 2018 and Art Basel: Hong Kong earlier this year. Held inside the Brutalist confines of 180 The Strand, its rooms play host to a new chapter of Gates’ Black Image Corporation, an exploration of contemporary Black culture, placing focus on the impact of record stores in the artist’s hometown of Chicago and the cultural resonance of 1942-founded African American Johnson Publishing Company, which filed for bankruptcy in April 2019, conveyed through a host of moving video installations, and installations of ceramic objects and furnishings.
At Prada Mode, Gates also presents Collective Intimacy, a two-day live programme of events, performances and talks, designed to affirm art as a ‘radical friendship’ and a ‘foundation underground.’ Highlights include designers Grace Wales Bonner and A-Cold-Wall*’s Samuel Ross in conversation with curator Elvira Dyangani Ose, an installation and talk by artist Tremaine Emory and The Lighthouse, an immersive live performance of women reading by artist Phoebe Boswell. ‘Come with your best energy,’ Gates told us at a preview of Prada Mode, where guests can also complimentary dining and two nights of parties, featuring DJ sets and live performances by Gates, Yussef Dayes and the The Black Monks of Mississippi, Josey Rebelle and James Messiah. We certainly plan to.
Photography: Henry Woide. Prada Mode takes place at 180 The Strand from 2-4 October 2019. Black Image Corporation is on view from 4-27 October 2019. Collective Intimacy takes place on 4,5,12,19 and 26 October 2019.
Roberto Ruspoli and Christabel Blackburn at Alex Eagle Studio
‘The international art community descends and the city is abuzz with creativity,’ says Alex Eagle, whose renowned Central London boutique is playing host to the work of two artists as part of Frieze Week. Eagle’s Studio is always swathed in mid-century furniture wonders from Pierre Jeanneret chairs to an Etore Sottsass Ultrafragola mirror, and stocks a plethora of eclectic art and fashion objects. Until October 8, it also showcases pieces by London-based painter Christabel Blackburn, who created twenty commissioned works of varying size which, using vivid tones, feature subjects in the midst of human contemplation.
More flamboyant is the work of Rome-born Paris-based Roberto Ruspoli (pictured), whose line-based depictions of Roman youths are not just confined to canvas but also expand onto walls and light fittings.
Christabel Blackburn and Roberto Ruspoli’s work is on show at Alex Eagle Studio until 8 October.
Josh Faught at Casa Loewe
Loewe’s flagship store on Old Bond Street opened in April, not just as a retail haven, but as an experiential three floor space, also functioning as an art gallery. It’s a physical manifestation of the artistic threads which creative director Jonathan Anderson has weaved into the Madrid houses’s aesthetic, and is populated with works by past Loewe Foundation Craft Prize winners and artworks by Anthea Hamilton and Grayson Perry. In celebration of Frieze, Casa Loewe is hosting a show of works by San Francisco-based fibre artist Josh Faught – whose weaved and crochet textile works incorporate everyday objects like unpaired socks and nail varnish – which coincides with his exhibition of new works at Koppe Astner in Glasgow.
Faught’s labour intensive works place focus on queer history, and Mr. Kramer’s Dream House, a fragment of a reproduction of controversial AIDS activist Larry Kramer’s former Connecticut home interior, which was photographed in 1995, is on view. This is presented alongside three hand-made textile works, exploring the concept of ambivalence, incorporating the subject matter of gay magazines and the first same sex couple in the American soap opera Days of our Lives.
Mr. Kramer’s Dream House by Josh Faught, is on view at Casa Loewe until 6 October.
Andy Warhol at Victoria Beckham
‘Fashion is more art than art is,’ mused Andy Warhol, but shoppers at Victoria Beckham’s flagship store on Dover Street don’t have to choose between the two disciplines, as during Frieze Week the Farshid Moussavi-designed boutique is playing host to a selling exhibition of the artist’s work in collaboration with Sotheby’s.
Last June, Beckham also partnered with the auction house on a show of Old Masters paintings. This time, her collaboration explores three decades of paintings and works on paper by Warhol, the master of Pop Art. Highlights include a series of self-portraits, dollar sign and flower artworks, and portraits of Andy Warhol and members of his Factory, lensed by Cecil Beaton in New York in 1969. ‘Warhol’s work irrevocably blurred the lines between all forms of creativity and he is certainly the artist who most influenced today’s fashion world, from his debuts as a fashion illustrator to the way he turned his art into fashion designs and his collaboration with trend- setters of his day,’ says Alex Branczik, Sotheby’s european head of contemporary art of the exhibition.
Andy Warhol is on view until at Victoria Beckham 4 October 2019
Kiko Kostadinov and Vanillajellaba at Dover Street Market
Susan Nemeth ceramics; Thom Browne’s first fragrance collection; the debut of Honey Fucking Dijon’s namesake brand: there were a host of launches at Dover Street Market which coincided with Frieze Week 2019. London-based designer Kiko Kostadinov also used the occasion to mark the opening of his new permanent space inside the Haymarket-based retail behemoth. The area features domestic pieces designed by anonymous art collective Vanillajellaba, who interpret everyday consumerist objects through a distorted lens, which were first presented as part of an evening with Kostadinov at Cos x Serpentine Park Nights in August. The space also plays host to clothing from a collaboration with French-Italian photographer Claude Nori, featuring images from an early abstract book titled Lunettes.
Craig Green and Saelia Aparicio at Matchesfashion
There was plenty on the agenda for Matchesfashion’s debut partnership with Frieze. In a bid to bring the immersive, community and activity-focused elements incorporated into its 5 Carlos Place townhouse in Mayfair, the retailer created not just an interactive Frieze lounge, with its walls emblazoned with Matchesfashion’s signature marbled hues, but a roster of programmes and events, from Symonds Permain’s S/S 2020 fashion show, held in the Standard London Library, to talks with American artist Tschabalala Self and meet and greets with collaborative artist duo Walter and Zoniel.
Both Matchesfashion’s townhouse and its Frieze Lounge also played host to a collaboration between London designer and artist Craig Green and Saelia Aparicio, who first met at the Sarabande Foundation in 2017. The result is a series of cubic figurative stools, that play on both Green and Aparicio’s attention to physical form, and resemble curled timber figures, plus a series of wall hangings that bring together Aparicio’s tree human mutants and ‘The Dream Suits’embroidery from Green’s S/S 2020 collection.