Wrapping up New York's debut men's S/S 2016 fashion week
Wrapping up New York's debut men's S/S 2016 fashion week
The first ever, men’s-only edition of New York Fashion Week was held in Manhattan last week, with a strong mix of emerging and established menswear brands relishing the chance to show on home turf. Homegrown favourites like Rag & Bone, Billy Reid and Public School kept the hometown spirit high with immersive presentations that expressed just what their DNA was all about. Stalwarts like Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, Polo Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne gave the event gravitas; Browne (pictured) stayed true to form and stunned spectators with a dramatic installation filled with signature pieces, despite showing a full collection in Paris just weeks before. New York Fashion Week: Men’s (as it is known) was headquartered in a sophisticated setting at Skylight Clarkson Sq, a warehouse venue in west SoHo, just off of the Hudson River. Undeniably chic, yet edgy, it was the perfect birthplace for the standalone showcase...
Thom Browne: The designer used his slot on the New York men's calendar to take stock of the brand's essence - his signature grey suit. Entitled The Officeman, Browne presented 28 grey toned ensembles within a mirrored cube that a snaking line of spectators waited to venture through. With what appeared to be an army of models donning reflective glasses and slicked back hair, Browne's presentation took on a strong sci-fi quality reminiscent of the Matrix films, where uniformity acquires a sinister edge. The same could be said about walking into Browne's disorienting infinity room, which also featured a silver desk, apple, briefcase and typewriter - almost indiscernible amidst the reflections. Set against the visual cacophony, Browne's tailoring cut like a knife
Public School: Undoubtedly one of the hottest names on the men's fashion scene, Public School staged an arresting presentation of its S/S 2016 collection by assembling its models in the style of a police line-up. Complete with viewing galleries, height measures, and an occasional voiceover calling each of the suspects to step forward, the monochrome collection was comprised of tailored skater shorts, slim three-quarter length coats, roguish varsity jackets and other Public School repeat offenders
Public School: The collection's cool, streetwear-centric attitude was complemented by the use of sleek, refined fabrics that brought lots of movement to pieces that could also be layered on top of each other
Duckie Brown: The brand's play on the universal essentials of a man's wardrobe - t-shirt, trousers, buttoned-down shirt and some iteration of a weather-proof jacket - took an adventurous turn as the label trotted out voluminously oversized versions of such staples in wafts of sheer organza and shiny charmeuse. Photography: Richard Renda
Duckie Brown: Trousers, which were made in a 48 inch waist, were worn by models paperbag-style, cinched and tied. Pops of salmon, lavender and an especially bright yellow voluminous suit kept the collection daring and unexpected. With most of the pieces soft and unstructured, there is not much for wallflowers here
Rag & Bone: The design duo's utilitarian aesthetic took on the acrobatic spirit of Parkour this season. The sport not only inspired an added mobility and freedom in the garments, but is also the focus of the collection's campaign, which includes a film following traceurs as they bound off walls and somersault over roofs in Brooklyn - a free-spirited gang of well-dressed rebels
Rag & Bone: The clothes themselves boasted a bevy of activity-oriented construction details. From liberating drop crotches and useful side zips on trousers to elongated t-shirts and voluminous jackets that evoked a parachute-like quality, Rag & Bone produced a neutral toned collection that's dynamic enough to make any couch potato want to get up and go
Ovadia & Sons: To honour the debut of New York Fashion Week: Men's, twin brothers Ariel and Shimon Ovadia didn't look far from home for inspiration. As native New Yorkers, the designers were inspired by the eclectic style tribes within their hometown's five boroughs and brought them together with a slick common thread running through. Photography: Alyssa Greenberg
Ovadia & Sons: From floral printed jogger pants to more elegant duster coats in navy cupro and a Prince of Wales plaid, the youthful collection is as wearable as it is easy on the eye. Photography: Alyssa Greenberg
Theory: Uniforms were on many designers' minds this season, and Theory couldn't have been more on point with its crisp collection of tailored separates. Worn by eight pairs of male and female, and presented on the rooftop of the company's Meatpacking District HQ, the androgynous collection proved that men and women aren't so different after all
Theory: Inspired by Zaha Hadid's early paintings and abstract renderings, garments demonstrated new construction techniques, despite their classic appearance. Perfectly put together, yet easy to wear, we'd be happy to wear these pieces everyday
Tim Coppens: The Belgian-born designer Tim Coppens knows a thing or two about merging athletic wear with luxury. Since establishing his eponymous brand in New York in 2011, Coppens has captured the vitality of street culture in clothing through a sophisticated lens
Tim Coppens: His S/S collection takes the skateboarder shorts and cargo pants of our youth and sets them next to embellished sweaters and buttery leather jackets for an urban, yet elegant look - delivered with cool nonchalance, of course
Billy Reid: The designer's refined, yet workwear-inspired aesthetic took a sumptuous turn this season with the seasoned designer developing soft, diaphanous fabrics in France, Italy and Japan, in addition to the USA
Billy Reid: The unstructured, summery silhouettes, which included staples like vests, t-shirts, baller shorts and slim fit trousers, were amped up with textured fabrics like quilted canvas, cotton-cashmere jacquards, raw silks and gauzy linens, to give the pieces an elevated edge. Intricate prints derived from fossil shapes and seafront foliage enhanced the garments' tactility even more
Orley: The knitwear label Orley trades heavily on evoking the familiar. While that might not necessarily mean full-blown nostalgia per se, it was certainly the case for its S/S 2016 collection, filled with 1970s inspired jacquard tank tops, crocheted silk t-shirts, popcorn knit vests and linen shorts
Orley: With a presentation setting dressed with carpets from ABC Carpet & Home, Orley's backdrop was not far off from a typical family living room, with designer furniture from Knoll, Bower and Asher Israelow. It wasn't all about yesteryear either - finely knit merino polo shirts, tapered flat front trousers and sharp knit jackets kept things bang up to date
Michael Kors: No one induces a case of wanderlust quite like Michael Kors. For his S/S 2016 collection, the veteran designer evoked the languid, louche style of artists such as Peter Beard and Julian Schnabel, with pyjama shaped suits, hand painted pinstripes and gauzy Shibori-print mufflers, slung over the shoulder just so
Michael Kors: 'Schnabel chic,' Kors coined, as he personally talked through each look in an intimate presentation setting. The accessories' offering was strong with reversible totes lined with suede, structured leather backpacks and gladiator sandals all making a play for 'holiday must-have' status. Light outerwear, from cosy sweater jackets to long trench coats, came armed with a relaxed versatility that would continue to work wonders even once the weather turns
Tommy Hilfiger: The New Yorker chose the 21st floor of a modern tower in Chelsea to present his 2016 Tommy Hilfiger Tailored collection, which was inspired by a 1950s style island-hopping holiday. From such a vantage point boasting views of New York City's western waterfronts, Manhattan's own standing as an island was hard to ignore
Tommy Hilfiger: Indoors amidst tropical palm fronds and lush greenery, the collection was comprised of versatile pieces that would suit lounging around in Hawaii or enjoying evening cocktails in Martha's Vineyard. The label also offered a glimpse of its TH Flex collection, a limited edition line of suits made from high performance fabrics, fronted by ambassador Rafael Nadal
Polo Ralph Lauren: Tan suits have been mostly left by the sartorial wayside, but Polo Ralph Lauren is making a case for bringing them back. During its sping menswear presentation, the iconic label showed a double-breasted chino suit and another in a fawny textured tweed that were both bold and traditional at once
Polo Ralph Lauren: The collection also made a compelling case for the double-breasted shape, which not only came to life in a pinstriped linen herringbone jacket, but as a chic navy trim tuxedo as well. There were lots to wear for play too: from belted black plaid moto jackets to technically sound outerwear and luxury sports gear in its RLX line. All told, the comprehensive offering properly reflected the needs of today's man
