The rise of the Swedish fashion phenomenon is charted in a new show in Stockholm

Sven Harry's Art Museum in Stockholm is examining the transformation of Sweden's fashion scene in a new exhibition, stretching from the dawn of the Noughties to now. Functional and affordable fashion are two of the key forces driving this change, with denim by Cheap Monday, Acne Studios and Tiger of Sweden, playing a prominent role.
By the end of the 1990s, when international designers were still putting large logos on their products, Swedish designers were focusing on creating functional clothes that you could move in - a development to do with Swedish society at large, explains one of the exhibition's curators, Cia Jansson, who is also creative director of Swedish Elle. 'We began to be pretty comfortable and our choice of fashion has to fit with picking up and leaving the kids from day care, and then going out for drinks,' she explains.
This change was part of a larger creative development that took place in Sweden around the millennia. The new generation of architects, chefs and designers no longer flirted with countries abroad. They looked at their own backyard for inspiration, and started designing for their own market.
'They realised they had to listen to the needs of Swedish men and women,' says Michael Elmenbeck, co-curator and founder of Bon magazine. 'We wanted fashion we could afford. I guess it is part of our socialist heritage. Just look at H&M and IKEA - it has shaped us.' Elmenbeck continues: 'As a result, everyday fashion and "dressing down" was something Swedish designers became pioneers in. Both Acne and Cheap Monday designed clothes that a young generation could afford. Meaning Swedish fashion became recognised as cool.'
Organised by different trends, lesser-known names such as Ann-Sofie Back, Whyred, Dagmar, Rodebjer and Sandra Backlund are also prominently featured.
On the rooftop of the museum, the next generation of designers are also on display, including Ida Klamborn, Erik Bjerkesjö and Naim Josefi - paving Swedish fashion's future. However, how that aesthetic will look going forward is still hard to tell, says Elmenbeck. 'They are not interested in mass production, and the fabrics are more exclusive. Having grown up with their iPhone next to them and blogs showing catwalk fashion, their views of what is Swedish have changed slightly. There is a larger focus on colour and high fashion details,' he explains. 'It will be very interesting to see where they will take it next.'
This installation features pieces from local labels including Sandra Backlund (2007), AltewaiSaome (2012), Helena Hörstedt (2008), Bea Szenfeld (2007) and V Ave Shoe Repair (2008)
Texture is put under the microscope with avant-garde pieces by Sandra Backlund (2010), Ann-Sofie Back Ateljé (2008), Bea Szenfeld (2007) and Helena Hörstedt (2008).
A ribbon confection by V Ave Shoe Repair (2009) is far from the laid-back Swedish fashion stereotype.
By the end of the 1990s, when international designers were still putting large logos on their products, Swedish designers were focusing on creating functional clothes that you could move in - a development to do with Swedish society at large, explains curator Cia Jansson. On show: designs from V Ave Shoe Repair (2008), AltevaiSaome (2013), The Local Firm (2012/2013) and J.Lindeberg (2014).
The emerging group of architects, chefs and designers no longer flirted with countries abroad. They looked at their own backyard for inspiration, and started designing for their own market. Pictured: V Ave Shoe Repair (2010).
On the rooftop of the museum, the next generation of designers are also on display. Pictured is a piece by Ida Klamborg (2014).
Naim Josefi (2014).
A look from Leonard Kocic (2014) on the museum's rooftop.
Filippa K (2009).
Accessories from Malinda Damgaard.
A 3D corset from Bea Szenfeld (2010).
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Sabato De Sarno is leaving Gucci after a two-year tenure
Italian designer Sabato De Sarno is parting ways with Gucci, it has been confirmed by the house this morning, continuing a picture of a fashion industry in flux
By Jack Moss Published
-
Land Rover dials it up with the OTT Defender OCTA, the ultimate performance off-roader
Wallpaper* takes a South African sojourn in the flagship Land Rover Defender OCTA, a steely machine that upgrades every facet of the off-roader
By Rory FH Smith Published
-
And the RIBA Royal Gold Medal 2025 goes to... SANAA!
The RIBA Royal Gold Medal 2025 winner is announced – Japanese studio SANAA scoops the prestigious architecture industry accolade
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Acne Studios’ new Paris store combines classicism and counterculture
Opening on Rue Saint-Honoré, the new store utilises Saint Maximin stone to monolithic effect. Here, Acne Studios’ creative director Jonny Johansson and architects Arquitectura-G tell Wallpaper* the story behind the project
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Acne Studios’ A/W 2022 show set featured sunken living rooms
For Swedish brand Acne Studio’s A/W 2022 womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week, guests snuggled into sunken living rooms, swathed in cosy fake fur
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2020 Editor’s Picks
From Vetements fashion show in McDonalds, to Rocha's floral-filled runway, we round up the Wallpaper* Editor's Picks of Paris Fashion Week Men's S/S 2020...
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019 Editor’s Picks
From Acne Studio’s new set of archetypes to Yohji Yamamoto’s second collaboration with artist Suzume Uchida, we present the Wallpaper* pick of Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Acne Studios A/W 2017
Jonny Johansson champions a DIY aesthetic, from fluid dresses with hand-stitched finishes to silk-plissé floral tailoring
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Acne Studios S/S 2017
By JJ Martin Last updated