Acne Studios A/W 2017
Jonny Johansson champions a DIY aesthetic, from fluid dresses with hand-stitched finishes to silk-plissé floral tailoring
Mood board: For Acne Studios’ A/W 2017 show, Jonny Johansson bedecked the ceiling of the Pavillon Cambon with an undulating wire mesh sky, which flickered from gold to silver like an electrical storm. The show opened with Laurie Anderson’s experimental recording Bright Red, comprising distorted spoken word lyrics overlaid with instrumentals. Unusual fabrications and an avant-garde soundtrack echoed Johansson’s interest in a choose-your-own aesthetic narrative, with a collection that featured reworked garments with DIY details, like patchwork leather coats, fluid dresses with fringed and rough hand-stitched finishes and silk-plissé floral tailoring.
Best in show: Championing individuality, Johansson reinterpreted tailoring shapes, turning shirts and blazers back to front. Mannish blazers, in leather and tailoring fabrics, were worn backwards, the structured shape also featuring in long fluid dresses, the sleeves finished with rows of buttons.
Finishing touches: Hand stitched finishes and patches, and back to front styling echoed Johansson's preoccupation with more naive conceptions of craft, and this was also reflected in his accessories. A lesson in pottery class perfection, jewellery included hoop earrings – irregular and oversized – and chunky bangles, moulded in clay, and then crafted in metal and colourful enamel.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
A Mexican artist’s studio makes the most of light and volume in San Miguel Chapultepec
A Mexican artist's studio and home, designed by JJRR in the heart of Mexico City, makes the most of volume and light for its owner, Stefan Bruggemann
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Sydney’s The Darling shows off its playful and sophisticated suites
The Darling in Sydney unveils its recently renovated suites by Fender Katsalidis, paying homage to the surrounding cityscape
By Tianna Williams Published
-
New Rivian R2 and R3 downsize a format to increase the EV company’s standings
The Californian manufacturer has revealed the new Rivian R2 and R3, all-electric SUVs that combine practicality with functional elegance
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Acne Studios’ new Paris store combines classicism and counterculture
Opening on Rue Saint-Honoré, the new store utilises Saint Maximin stone to monolithic effect. Here, Acne Studios’ creative director Jonny Johansson and architects Arquitectura-G tell Wallpaper* the story behind the project
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Acne Studios’ A/W 2022 show set featured sunken living rooms
For Swedish brand Acne Studio’s A/W 2022 womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week, guests snuggled into sunken living rooms, swathed in cosy fake fur
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated