Mood board: For Acne Studios’ A/W 2017 show, Jonny Johansson bedecked the ceiling of the Pavillon Cambon with an undulating wire mesh sky, which flickered from gold to silver like an electrical storm. The show opened with Laurie Anderson’s experimental recording Bright Red, comprising distorted spoken word lyrics overlaid with instrumentals. Unusual fabrications and an avant-garde soundtrack echoed Johansson’s interest in a choose-your-own aesthetic narrative, with a collection that featured reworked garments with DIY details, like patchwork leather coats, fluid dresses with fringed and rough hand-stitched finishes and silk-plissé floral tailoring.
Best in show: Championing individuality, Johansson reinterpreted tailoring shapes, turning shirts and blazers back to front. Mannish blazers, in leather and tailoring fabrics, were worn backwards, the structured shape also featuring in long fluid dresses, the sleeves finished with rows of buttons.
Finishing touches: Hand stitched finishes and patches, and back to front styling echoed Johansson's preoccupation with more naive conceptions of craft, and this was also reflected in his accessories. A lesson in pottery class perfection, jewellery included hoop earrings – irregular and oversized – and chunky bangles, moulded in clay, and then crafted in metal and colourful enamel.
Acne Studios A/W 2017
Acne Studios A/W 2017
Acne Studios A/W 2017
Acne Studios A/W 2017
-
Mika Cars wants to build the Mino, a sporty, ultra-compact electric two-seater for the open roadAn evolution of Mika’s Meon electric beach buggy, the little Mino is an ultra-light EV with big-car aspirations
-
Beck on his orchestral shows: 'It's something that can't be simulated by AI'Following two nights at London's Royal Albert Hall, Wallpaper* meets Beck and conductor Edwin Outwater to hear how the pair brought to life Beck's back catalogue with an 80-piece orchestra
-
Formula 1 in photos: 100 memorable momentsA new book, ‘Formula 1: The Impossible Collection’, marks 75 years of the motor-racing championship – a history full of tenacity, triumph and tragedy
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Acne Studios’ new Paris store combines classicism and countercultureOpening on Rue Saint-Honoré, the new store utilises Saint Maximin stone to monolithic effect. Here, Acne Studios’ creative director Jonny Johansson and architects Arquitectura-G tell Wallpaper* the story behind the project
-
Acne Studios’ A/W 2022 show set featured sunken living roomsFor Swedish brand Acne Studio’s A/W 2022 womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week, guests snuggled into sunken living rooms, swathed in cosy fake fur
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
