Acne Studios A/W 2017
Jonny Johansson champions a DIY aesthetic, from fluid dresses with hand-stitched finishes to silk-plissé floral tailoring

Mood board: For Acne Studios’ A/W 2017 show, Jonny Johansson bedecked the ceiling of the Pavillon Cambon with an undulating wire mesh sky, which flickered from gold to silver like an electrical storm. The show opened with Laurie Anderson’s experimental recording Bright Red, comprising distorted spoken word lyrics overlaid with instrumentals. Unusual fabrications and an avant-garde soundtrack echoed Johansson’s interest in a choose-your-own aesthetic narrative, with a collection that featured reworked garments with DIY details, like patchwork leather coats, fluid dresses with fringed and rough hand-stitched finishes and silk-plissé floral tailoring.
Best in show: Championing individuality, Johansson reinterpreted tailoring shapes, turning shirts and blazers back to front. Mannish blazers, in leather and tailoring fabrics, were worn backwards, the structured shape also featuring in long fluid dresses, the sleeves finished with rows of buttons.
Finishing touches: Hand stitched finishes and patches, and back to front styling echoed Johansson's preoccupation with more naive conceptions of craft, and this was also reflected in his accessories. A lesson in pottery class perfection, jewellery included hoop earrings – irregular and oversized – and chunky bangles, moulded in clay, and then crafted in metal and colourful enamel.
Acne Studios A/W 2017
Acne Studios A/W 2017
Acne Studios A/W 2017
Acne Studios A/W 2017
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Dine within a rationalist design gem at the newly opened Cucina Triennale
Cucina Triennale is the latest space to open at Triennale Milano, a restaurant and a café by Luca Cipelletti and Unifor, inspired by the building's 1930s design
-
The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear season
Between the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
-
Meet artist Michael McGregor, using hotel stationery as his canvas
Michael McGregor unveils an exclusive postcard set made with notepads from The Luxury Collection properties in Minneapolis, San Francisco and Savannah
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris
‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Acne Studios’ new Paris store combines classicism and counterculture
Opening on Rue Saint-Honoré, the new store utilises Saint Maximin stone to monolithic effect. Here, Acne Studios’ creative director Jonny Johansson and architects Arquitectura-G tell Wallpaper* the story behind the project
-
Acne Studios’ A/W 2022 show set featured sunken living rooms
For Swedish brand Acne Studio’s A/W 2022 womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week, guests snuggled into sunken living rooms, swathed in cosy fake fur
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles