If there was ever a high note for live musical fashion performances, the S/S 2016’s womenswear season was it.
The power of a concert, fused with a fashion show, saw Courtney Love take on ‘the machine’ at Philipp Plein’s robotic Milan presentation, while Givenchy’s outdoor New York spectacular was accompanied by a moving line-up of artists paired with instrumentalists from a variety of ethnicities.
Burberry Prorsum’s London show (pictured) featured British singer Alison Moyet and a 32-piece orchestra conducted by Joe Duddell. Then over in Paris, Rick Owens' ‘Cyclops’ presentation featured a live performance by Unkle and Eska Mtungwazi with an arrangement of Jimmy’s Scott’s ‘This Land Is Mine’.
Not that the mix tape has had its day. Quite the contrary, it was especially well represented at Hunter Original where we were transported to Glastonbury via the brand's London Fashion Week show tent. ‘There was definitely a sense of nostalgia to the playlist at our show,’ explained creative director Alasdhair Willis of his festival-ready staging, ‘but it was moulded with current headliner tracks, which I hope took the audience back to a euphoric festival experience of their own.’ His playlist represented the familiar genres of festival music from techno and house, right through to indie guitar: ‘To reflect the many differing festival personalities and celebrating the best of Brit pop and rock from the last 20,’ he added.
Even more personal was Rag & Bone’s original track, 'Villain', composed by friend of the brand, Thom York. The track itself was performed with the accompaniment of twelve members of the Brooklyn Youth Chorus; a collective of talented young singers representing 200 schools citywide. ‘As a New York brand, we were delighted to have members of the Brooklyn Youth Chorus collaborate on the track and it was fitting that it was performed at St. Ann’s Warehouse, an institution which has hosted some historic live performances,’ explained designer Marcus Wainwright.
So without further delay here are our S/S 2016 sound show highlights….
'Calling the Lama From Afar' by singer Lama Gyurme and Jean Philippe Rykiel on piano; 'Where have you been my kid?' by Svetlana Spajic; 'Asmar ellon (The One with the Olive Skin]' by Gaida and Zafer; 'Shalom Aleichem' by singer Rinat Shaham and violinist Jacob Malkin; 'Adharan' by Falguni Shah and harmonium player Gaurav; 'Ave Maria' by singer Faustine de Mones and pianist Jin Jung
'Gimme Shelter (Merry Clayton Vocal)' by The Rolling Stones; 'Silver Screen (Thin White Duke Mix)' by Felix Da Housecat; 'Missy Queen's Gonna die' by Toktok Vs. Soffy O; 'Situation (12" Mix)' by Yazoo; 'Time to Burn' by Storm; 'Bad Girls' by Donna Summer; 'Emerge (The Hacker Remix)' by Fischerspooner; 'Meet Her at the Love Parade' by Da Hool; 'Smalltown Boy (12" Version)' by Bronski Beat; 'No More Tears (Enough is Enough)(extended version)' by Barbra Streisand and Donna Summer
'Camomille (duduk)' by Arto Tunçboyacıyan; 'Henry Torgue & Serge Houppin' by Les Racines du Reve; 'Kassidat El Hakka' by Sexwitch; 'Helelyos' by Sexwitch; 'Ha Howa Ha Howa' by Sexwitch; 'Dawn of the Iconoclast' by Dead Can Dance; 'Carnival of Light' by Dead Can Dance
'Kin To Coal?' by Vessel; 'Peaches?' by Blawan; 'Strange Dreams' by Untold; 'Sicko' by Rex The Dog; 'My Bro' by Tonetta; 'You Put A Smell On Me' by Matthew Dear; 'Cherchez Pas' by Madleen Kane
'Electronic Battle Weapon 11' by The Chemical Brothers; 'The Hunter' by Slaves; 'Daydreamer' by Menswear; 'Impossible (Special Request Remix)' by Lion Babe; 'In Bloom' by Hooverphonic; 'Bang That' by Disclosure; '24 Hour Party People' by Happy Mondays
'No Type (Canblaster & Siroj Orchestral Refix)' by Rae Sremmurd; 'Moments In Love (Kid Antoine Remix) 'Art Of Noise; 'Black Rainbow' by Koreless; 'Crisis (Live Dub)' by Jam City; 'No Type (Canblaster & Siroj Orchestral Refix)' by Rae Sremmurd; 'Your Silent Face (New Order Instrumental Cover)' by User X
'Minecraft (Video Game) Teaser'; 'Atari Corporate Tag' by Suzanne Ciani; 'A New Error' by Moderat; 'Flynn Lives (Tron Legacy Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)' by Daft Punk; 'The Grid (Tron Legacy Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)' by Daft Punk; 'Crescendo (Final) (Notre Jour Viendra Original Soundtrack)' by Sebastian
'Deceptacon' by Le Tigre; 'Phanta' by Le Tigre; 'Hot Topic' by Le Tigre
'Trans Europe Express (Remastered)' by Kraftwerk; 'The Robots (Remastered)' by Kraftwerk; 'The Swell' by Sølyst; 'Sex' by Fukkk Offf; 'The Model (Remastered)' by Kraftwerk; 'Model' by Balanescu Quartet; 'Ingenium' by Baal; 'Krack' by SBCR & Owl Vision
Rag & Bone
Original track 'Villain' by Thom York
'This Land' by Unkle, performed by Mtungwazi Eska with Connie Bidouzo and Audrey Gbaguidi
Music by Bertrand Burgalat with Christophe Chassol who harmonised Seward's voice alongside German group Donna Regina
Live performance by British artist Alison Moyet singing ‘All Cried Out’; ‘When I Was Your Girl’; ‘Whispering Your Name’; ‘Only You’ accompanied by a 32-piece orchestra conducted by Joe Duddell
Original track 'The Mirror' by Damaged Bug, which was written and recorded in Los Angeles by John Dwyer for Saint Laurent
Custom soundtrack by Twin Shadow