London Collections: Men S/S 2015 editors picks

Paul Smith: The British designer gave us a personal tour of his patterned brogue line-up for S/S 2015

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

By Jack Moss

last updated 31 October 2022

in Features

Tom Ford: Ford did Dallas for his latest menswear collection, once again tapping into his hometown Austin, Texas — **Tom Ford:** Ford did Dallas for his latest menswear collection, once again tapping into his hometown Austin, Texas, for inspiration, which also boot-scooted down his recent womenswear's runway

**Moschino:** The Milanese brand has never been afraid of a little branding, and creative director Jeremy Scott has certainly pushed the logo-laden boat out for S/S 2015. Mesh tracksuit pants boys? P

Hackett: From searsucker striped blazers in pastel pink and blue to V-neck cricket knits, cravats and khaki car coats — **Hackett:** From searsucker striped blazers in pastel pink and blue to V-neck cricket knits, cravats and khaki car coats, the prep squad cues extended all the way to triple popped collars at Hackett for S/S 2015 - polo tee, shirt and jacket included

Orlebar Brown: The swimwear label brought the dogs out, quite literally for its S/S presentation, with each pooch referenced in the name of their famous abbreviated swimming trunks. Pictured is Setter, Bulldog and Dane

Jimmy Choo: The London footwear label well and truly left the city limits for S/S 2015. — **Jimmy Choo:** The London footwear label well and truly left the city limits for S/S 2015. 'With this collection I wanted to take the Jimmy Choo man on an adventure, out of Mayfair, out of his comfort zone,' explained creative director Sandra Choi. The new hybrid combat-style trainer J Boot started that trek, complete with its lightweight flexible rubber tread, while deck shoes were re-equipped in hardwearing denim and croc printed leather.

Jimmy Choo: Maintaining the all-terrain theme were the super-sized soles of the season's sandal slides and tasseled loafers that were also made thicker for off-road pounding. — **Jimmy Choo:** Maintaining the all-terrain theme were the super-sized soles of the season's sandal slides and tasseled loafers that were also made thicker for off-road pounding.

Christopher Raeburn: The British designer offered up a multi-layered approach to dressing this season. Though there was a predominant aviation theme, S/S 2015 also showed that Raeburn is still a keen student of the three R's - reduce, reuse, recycle. Well known for reworking vintage fabrics within his collections, Raeburn re-appropriated fighter pilot flight suits for both clothes and accessories, and worked parachute fabric into t-shirts and hoodies. He then explored new possibilities for summer weight knits, furthering his collaboration with Woolmark, which was shown in casual suit jackets, shorts and trousers.

Jonathan Saunders: Preppy pastels and recurring stripe motifs were the order of the day at Jonathan Saunders who presented his S/S 2015 — **Jonathan Saunders:** Preppy pastels and recurring stripe motifs were the order of the day at Jonathan Saunders who presented his S/S 2015 men's collection in tandem with his latest womenswear resort offering

John Lobb: The English cobbler put its most elegant foot forward for S/S 2015 — **John Lobb:** The English cobbler put its most elegant foot forward for S/S 2015, showcasing ten new styles, linked by the theme 'Time's the charm' - a nod to how long it takes the Northampton-based boot maker to produce its bespoke shoes, and the resulting pleasure of wearing them. Similarly, with the expansion of the house's 'By Request' collection, the John Lobb customer is only too aware that good things come to those who wait

Kent & Curwen: Designer Simon Spurr set out to dress the 'front man' for S/S 2015 — **Kent & Curwen:** Designer Simon Spurr set out to dress the 'front man' for S/S 2015, one who's well versed in both rock 'n' roll styling cues and the sartorial elegance of classic English dress codes. As a result, Kent & Curwen's tuxedo jackets came decorated with a geometric animal print, while leather jackets were fashioned in powder white, just as the house's summer suiting was paired with boots - all perfect for centre stage.

Nicolas Kirkwood: The designer's fourth men's season was focused around four key shoe styles — **Nicolas Kirkwood:** The designer's fourth men's season was focused around four key shoe styles: the derby, oxford, loafer and a new addition, the men's sandal

Nicolas Kirkwood: Working with all manner of contrasting hues and textures for S/S 2015 — **Nicolas Kirkwood:** Working with all manner of contrasting hues and textures for S/S 2015, the foiled, patent and rubberised collection - that also sported a new zigzag-toothed sole - was accompanied by a short film titled 'Walk', which was projected across the venue's walls to the sound of techno beats

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.