Bottega Veneta S/S 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's

Scene setting: When Daniel Lee unveiled his first accessory designs for Veneta in 2018, he demonstrated a playful and XL interpretation of its signature Intrecciato weave. This construction informed the runway design of his first A/W 2019 show, which was housed inside a glass conservatory, populated with benches lined with oxblood, espresso and sky blue, weaved leather cushions. Fabrications came into play for the venue design of Lee’s hotly anticipated sophomore show for the brand. Here, the floor of a glass conservatory inside Palazzo del Senato, was lined with square gilt framed panels of glass, stuffed with interlaced sections of taupe quilted leather. Guests sat cloud-like benches, made from soft bouclé wool and bold nectarine leather.

Mood board: Just over a year into his appointment at the brand, and Lee’s effect is well present on and off the Milan runways. Just look to the profusion of Bermuda shorts on the spring catwalks or the oddly sculptural, off-kilter court shoes, weaved mules and bovver boots worn on the front row. Lee is honing his subversive, sexy vision, that plays with bourgeois tropes, eveningwear forms and modern elegance. ‘Uncompromising and unstructured contrasts are essential,’ he explained in his to-the-point show notes. Here, this meant rib knit dresses, worn a size too big with a slouch, tuxedo jumpsuits ending boyishly at the knee, and oddly whimsical monkey and pineapple print halternecks.

Finishing touches: Lee’s cloud-like weaved clutches and squidgy shoulder bags are also a front row fixture. For spring, there was plenty more arm candy to amass. Enormous hobo bags slung across the chest or Arc shape Arco 56 styles blown up to the slouchy size of a weekend style. Leather was plaited irregularly into mules or circular shoulder bags, clutch bags were honed from hunks of wood and gold bourgeois jewellery was chunky, oversized and chain-linked.