Scene setting: Marine Serre took guests to the depths of northern Paris for S/S 2019. The designer accelerated into the season with a Formula 1-inspired offering, and the catwalk – a long industrial raised walkway ascending through a park and over a railway line – was like a racetrack zipping through the city.
Mood board: Serre only presented her debut catwalk show last season, but she has already cemented her spliced, hybridising and scuba-centric aesthetic on the Paris Fashion Week schedule. Earlier this month, she even launched her first Matchesfashion.com capsule collection. Serre’s approach is utilitarian, colourful and athletic. A blend of bodysuits and bourgeois foulard silks, wet suits and tessellated moon motifs. She named her S/S 2019 collection ‘Hardcore Couture’, a reference to the blood, sweat and tears felt by her team securing production chains for her burgeoning brand, but also its audacious and innovative approach to design.
Amongst an impressive array of neoprene bodysuits, flame-print leather looks, draped dresses made from patchwork t-shirts and trailing foulard silk dresses, there were more Haute Couture designs on display here. A scuba-suit ball gown with voluminous fabric ruffles, a moiré silk racing suit, a cocoon coat dangling with key rings. Impressively, around half of Serre’s designs featured upcycled fabrics, including its moon print denim. Like the children who walked down the catwalk in the show, her sustainable approach to high fashion really is doing it for the kids.
Team work: Serre’s ready-to-wear offering also saw a host of accessory collaborations, including a sock boot-like Chuck Taylor trainer and a babouche driving slipper, created in collaboration with jelly shoe specialist Melissa. As the shoes hit the industrial tarmac runway, far removed from the opulent Place Vendôme orientated shows of fashion week, they represented a designer with her feet firmly on the ground. Like the speedy Formula One events referenced in her collection, she’s also leading in the race of what luxury looks like now.
Marine Serre S/S 2019
Marine Serre S/S 2019
Marine Serre S/S 2019
Marine Serre S/S 2019
-
Highlights from the transporting Cruise 2026 showsThe Cruise 2026 season began yesterday with a Chanel show at Lake Como, heralding the start of a series of jet-setting, destination runway shows from fashion’s biggest houses
-
Behind the design of national pavilions in Venice: three studios to knowDesigning the British, Swiss and Mexican national pavilions at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025 are three outstanding studios to know before you go
-
Premium patisserie Naya is Mayfair’s latest sweet spotHeritage meets opulence at Naya bakery in Mayfair, London. With interiors by India Hicks and Anna Goulandris, the patisserie looks good enough to eat
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
