Mood board: After multiple seasons of presenting its collections in Paris, Proenza Schouler chose to go back to the tenants of American culture for its first showing back on homegrown soil. Brimming over with tie-dye, acid wash denim and Western motifs such as pointed collars, studs and leather waistcoats, the label’s dynamic collection was cool, creative and deserving of the much-welcomed homecoming it received.
Scene setting: Staged on the second floor of an under-construction building on a Wall Street, Proenza Schouler crafted a snaking runway amidst crumbling plaster and exposed concrete walls. As guests entered, they were welcomed by a specially designed installation created by the artist Isa Genzken, who has used media, architecture, consumer goods, design and other everyday cultural material to create complex imagery and works. Genzken’s pieces for the label feature five mannequins decked out in Proenza Schouler pieces, masking tape, printed paper, plastic foil, spray cans and a ladder. The work, like Genzken’s others, are rife with political commentary and social ideologies.
Best in show: With its supreme sense for proportion, Proenza Schouler delivered a collection that was a feast for the eyes. From tiered and drop-waisted acid wash dresses, to architectural, wide-legged trousers and broad, tall leather boots, cinched together with thick cord at the ankles, the duo’s ability to transform comfortable wardrobe mainstays into smouldering statements was aided by the impeccable construction and tailoring behind each.
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Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
