Agnona S/S 2019 Milan Fashion Week Women’s

Mood board: Amber Valetta, dewy faced and swathed in a golden kaftan on the Agnona runway. What could be more luxurious? And it’s luxury that is at the very heart of the Italian house, with creative director Simon Holloway honing forever wardrobe pieces in perfectly formed fabrications each season. For S/S 2019, this meant the development of fabrics including vicuña poplin, featherweight cashmere, silk and viscose and a superfine18-gauge silk organza. There were silhouettes in sumptuous shades of sandalwood, cumin and Moroccan rose, like lightweight capes, and pleated tunics, clingy skirts and trenchoats. These were pieces without the noise and Instagram-seeking drama seen on other Milanese runways; discreet, rich and rigorously crafted – the true height of luxury.

Best in show: With every piece on the Agnona runway so expertly developed and crafted, it is near impossible to pick a standout. That golden kimono sported by Valetta had a versatile appeal for both a holiday wardrobe or a daytime city ensemble. For spring, Holloway was preoccupied with the concept of daywear, reimagining classics shapes and silhouettes. This also included a transparent jacket and trouser in 18-gauge silk organza yarn.

Finishing touches: Holloway was inspired by the work of artist Joan Jonas, and the bird print dresses she wore while painting images of birds. Flourishes of print appeared in the collection, in silk twill skirts, shirts and pleated skirts emblazoned with cockatoos, parakeets and toucans.