Paco Rabanne S/S 2018
Scene setting: A blackened Salon d'Honneur was the venue for this season's Paco Rabanne show, in stark contrast to last season's all-white décor in the Musée d'Art Moderne. Benches were disposed in a multitude of hexagons, with another hexagone inside each of them where standing guests watched the show, creating an unsettling human background. Seen from above, the seating plan must have been reminiscent of Paco Rabanne's trademark 'Cotte de maille', the metallic mesh that made the Spanish designer famous and which Julien Dosséna reprises with gusto season after season. It was an intriguing set for a new era in the brand, after a few months ago a new CEO was named to take things into a new direction.
Mood board: If last season was all about brightness and sportswear, this time nightlife and glam were on the menu. While the brand's signature chainmail silhouettes do have a mechical and space age slant, for S/S 2018 they were drenched with dazzling, discotheque flair, focused on human movement, dancing and frivolity.
Best in show: The brand's new direction was visible from the first look: any hint of street or activewear was gone, and replaced with an ultra glam aesthetic with disco references. A mini dress in metal mesh imitating python gave way to a sheer organza romper, then to a profusion of dresses with strategically placed slits, cutouts and fringes, the kind that makes editors sigh and exclaim: 'if I only had the kind of body that one needs to rock those clothes'.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
‘Very Roman, very Bulgari’: Mary Katrantzou on the ancient roots of her opulent first accessories collection for Bulgari
Greek fashion designer Mary Katrantzou, Bulgari’s new creative director of leather goods and accessories, breaks down her debut ‘Calla’ collection for Wallpaper*
By Jack Moss Published
-
First look: Western Mongolia meets Kew Gardens in John Pawson and Oyuna Tserendorj’s cashmere throws
Architectural designer John Pawson and cashmere designer Oyuna Tserendor have collaborated on a cashmere throw collection inspired by Pawson’s 70m Lake Crossing in the Royal Botanical Gardens
By Scarlett Conlon Published
-
How to buy art: the accessible new market
Thanks to a growing pool of art advisers, digital intelligence and collector groups, buyers are better equipped than ever
By Annabel Keenan Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated