Scene setting: In keeping with last season’s showing, Marc Jacobs once again opted to present its new collection within the Park Avenue Armoury in its raw, untouched state. Seating guests around the sprawling perimeter in a single row, Jacobs sent models out without a soundtrack, proving that silence can indeed be golden.
Mood board: Inspired by an imaginary holiday to a fantastical, far-flung place, Jacobs unveiled an ensemble of decadent, intricately adorned pieces that were imbued with sportswear overtones. Boisterous, 60s-esque prints in silk and stains were mixed with harem-like track pants and topped with oversized wool pea coats with exaggerated fur collars, glittery sequins or both. Oversized, menswear suiting took on a surrealistic bend in Jacobs’ hands. Retro prints, oversized turbans diaphanous resortwear recalled archive looks by Saint Laurent and Pucci. The collection was capped off by a bold colour palette that ranged from powdery pastels to bright fluorescents – it was a perfect finale for New York Fashion Week.
Best in show: Although there was no shortage of attention grabbing details, it was the range of footwear that particularly caught our eye. From chunky soled flip flops to ornate evening babooshes, all festooned with jewels, pom poms, fringing and tassels, the shoes were a creative talking point in their own right, despite the swirl of colour and shine around them.