Roksanda S/S 2018
Roksanda: Architecture has long been a source of inspiration for Roksanda Ilincic – after all, it was what the designer studied in her native Serbia, before moving to London to pursue fashion. For S/S 2018, the designer reclaimed her architectural roots, showing her brand’s latest collection at this year’s Francis Kére-designed Serpentine Pavillion. The Berlin-based architect’s design is shaped like a saucer, featuring a wooden latticed disc elevated on plinths, enclosed with a blue, chevron-striped lattice wall – a reference to the weaved textiles of his native Burkino Faso. The space was surrounded by guests, seated in two inner and outer concentric circles, and shrouded (if a little cold) in cosy navy quilts provided by the brand.
Mood board: Ilincic is known for her eye for colour, and the palette ranged from organic dusty hues, to bold crimson and fuchsia. The collection, too, favoured lean, elongated silhouettes – take a breezy bell-shape dress, with a dropped hem and layers of tufty fringing; a Mandarin-collar kimono, finished with fronds of tribal tan raffia; and a satin tunic, with wide balloon sleeves. Among bright evening gowns, embellished with outré 3D flowers, there were easier daytime looks, including long sleeveless tuxedo jackets, paired with trousers and secured with a loose tie of rope, dusty leaf-print blouses, high waisted trousers and wide A-line skirts which grazed the ankle.
Finishing touches: Roksanda’s accessory offering has developed season after season. The designer’s jewellery and bag designs emphasise the graphic shapes and architectural elements that inform her designs. For S/S 2018, bags were crafted from a variety of leather shapes, secured with handles made from metal and Perspex discs or squiggles of leather. Earrings resembled miniature Calderesque mobiles, with coils of metal swinging from a single earlobe, and encased within their spirals, colourful semi-precious stones.