Balenciaga S/S 2016

Moodboard: After announcing his amicable departure from the house in late July, Alexander Wang spent the summer constructing one of his most nuanced and wildly irreverent collections for Balenciaga. Wang chose white as his parting palette, for a textural melee of lace and embellishment that upcycled streetwear silhouettes with a luxuriant hand. Think silvery boxer shorts peeping from beneath fluid pyjama pants, or snap-button swing coats thrown over skimpy lingerie slips.

Finishing touches: On foot, Chinatown mesh slippers were given a luxurious update in white lacework embroidered with pearls, just as other streetwear references received a quasi-couture touch. Fanny packs in creamy satin duchesse, tasselled leather duffel bags, and engraved golden dog tags or cigarette cases elaborated his 'American in Paris' message more strongly than ever. It was the joyous sentiment of a confident designer happily heading home.

Setting the scene: Within the arched halls of the ex-Laennec hospital behind Le Bon Marché, a cross-shaped catwalk was divided by low ornamental pools, their beveled edges prefaced by the architectural invitation cut in white beveled plywood. Coupled with palest pink carpet underfoot, its tranquil effect was a sharp and welcome contrast to the dark, hard-edged polish of season's past.

INFORMATION

Photography: Umberto Fratini; Balenciaga