Akris S/S 2015

Albert Kriemler's fashion shows for Akris are almost always architectural in shape, but this season was drawn specifically with right angles in mind. The art-loving Kriemler name checked Kazimir Malevich, a Russian abstract artist, as the driving force behind his prominent use of the square. But even if squares and rectangles made their way into form and construction, the clothes at Akris are always distilled down to their minimalist core. So no funny business here - just a smooth and subtle use of box shapes either on tone-on-tone jacquards, or on rigid square netting made from silk, cotton or jersey that allowed for a graphic peek-a-boo game on coats, jackets and complete suits. Not all of his straight lines looked ruler perfect: the fusing of sheer chiffon with strategically covered panels did not ring as sharp as they should have on cocktail dresses. But overall, Akris delivered. As a bonus, there was a reinvented tennis visor with a low, sloping, architectural looking brim designed by venerable London milliner Stephen Jones.