Donna Karan got out the paintbrushes this season to create a masterpiece of a collection. The highlight of this focused and beautifully crafted offering was the 1950s silhouettes - which came in the form of black bustier tops, nipped waists and voluminous circle skirts - sharply drawn in sturdy, almost utilitarian fabrics. Karan used humble carpenter's cotton as a literal canvas onto which she brushed swooshes, scribbles and swirls in bold strokes. The painted surfaces were given a luxe touch with beading, sequins and other intricate 3D textures, and then broken down again with frayed edges. Best of all was the towering, wedged footwear and even taller hats, designed by Stephen Jones, whose exaggerated, wispy silhouettes were cut from an intriguing mesh netting.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
