Moncler A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Women's
Mood board: According to this month’s Lyst Index, Moncler is the fourth most popular brand in the world. Two seasons ago, the Italian outerwear expert announced a revolutionary retail approach, closing a plethora of its lines (from Gamme Rouge to Gamme Blue) and launching Moncler Genius – a product umbrella which sees a host of designers reinterpreting his famed padded-down jackets. We’ve seen Craig Green’s sculptural scuba suits, Simone Rocha’s Victorian hiker-inspired outerwear and Pierpaolo Picccioli’s priestly puffer jackets. New to the line-up for A/W 2019: Richard Quinn and Matthew Williams of 1017 ALYX 9SM, plus Veronica Leoni and Sergio Zambon taking the creative lead at Moncler 1952.
Scene setting: For its A/W 2019 Genius showcase, Moncler didn’t do things by halves. The brand set up a series of presentation galleries in the arches underneath Milano Centrale Train station. Hosts of fans turned out for the event, gathering in the nearby street, which was lined with jets of flame and pulsating music. The beauty of the Genius project lies in its designers’ ability to present differing installations inside one overarching showspace, like Simone Rocha’s tranquil beech-lined woodland or Craig Green’s industrial installation, with his sculptural pieces suspended from the ceiling, and blasted by air-like aeroplanes. Newcomer Richard Quinn drew on his horticultural heritage, creating a space pasted with colourful florals, while Palm Angels erected a paintballing venue, with colourful splashes of paint being fired at models wearing protective metallic puffer jackets.
Best in show: It’s captivating how different brands and designer’s work to reinterpret Moncler’s signature codes. The variety of creative output is a testament to the label’s skill in curation and the innovative ability of its collaborators. Particularly pleasing was the work of Pierpaolo Piccioli and Richard Quinn, who worked to translate their voluminous haute couture shapes synonymous with their aesthetic into pieces with a sportier sensibility. Piccioli’s breathtaking pieces offered puffed up perfection, and featured down-filled capes and long-trained dresses, emblazoned with graphic patterns designed by Liya Kebede. Elsewhere, Quinn’s padded opera coats, patterned with retro flowers and zebra prints, blended the elegant with the utilitarian.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
‘LA Gun Club’: artist Jane Hilton on who’s shooting who
‘LA Gun Club’, an exhibition by Jane Hilton at New York’s Palo Gallery, explores American gun culture through a study of targets and shooters
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Kim Jones’ Dior Men accessories channel the rebellious spirit of the Buffalo Collective
Agitator and establishment meet in Kim Jones’ S/S 2024 Dior Men accessories, inspired at once by the house’s history of haute couture and Ray Petri’s 1980s Buffalo Collective
By Jack Moss Published
-
Hotel Rakuragu is a tiny but mighty modern escape in Tokyo
Hotel Rakuragu, brought to life by Kooo Architects, lies within an 80 sq m plot in the area of Chuo-ku
By Danielle Demetriou Published
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion week
Take an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
BOSS A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated