Arthur Arbesser A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: Colour is essential to Arbesser’s aesthetic. The Viennese designer draws on the bold art and design heritage of his home city for inspiration. Arbesser looked closer to his Milan studio for autumn, which was designed by the Italian architect and furniture designer Luigi Caccia Dominioni in the 1940s. Dominioni completed over 100 projects in Milan before his death at 103, favouring graphic lines and a sparse sprinkling of windows. There was a bourgeoisie sensibility in the collection, inspired by the location of the studio, which overlooks Sant’Ambrogio square. There were trenchcoats, silk blouses, handkerchief skirts and V-neck gilets all imagined in Arbesser’s unusual colour palette (with emphasis on browns, golds, reds and lilacs), and his eccentric use of pattern.
Scene setting: Arbesser held his runway show at Rockspot, an indoor climbing center. Its climbing walls, populated with pebbly, colourful footholds formed a serendipitous backdrop to the tones and patterns in the collection, and offered a contrast to those bourgeois silhouettes on show.
Best in show: Arbesser used Tuscan Casentino to highlight the bourgeois elements in the collection, its thick wool fabrication used to create elegant belted coats. More unusual fabrications came in the form of archive photographic lychee and pomegranate prints, featured on skirts, smart trousers and waistcoats.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Tuneshine is a new way of bringing back the lost art of the album cover
The compact Tuneshine screen uses LED tech to illuminate the artwork of whatever you’re currently streaming
-
Inside the new theatre at Jacob’s Pillow and its ‘magic box’, part of a pioneering complex designed for dance
Jacob’s Pillow welcomes the reborn Doris Duke Theatre by Mecanoo, a new space that has just opened in the beloved Berkshires cultural hub for the summer season
-
What to see at Rencontres d’Arles 2025, questioning power structures in the state and family
Suppressed memories resurface in sharply considered photography at Rencontres d'Arles 2025. Here are some standout photographers to see
-
The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear season
Between the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
-
Let there be light: a closer look at Prada’s stripped-back S/S 2026 show set
‘This is the first time the Fondazione is completely bare, with the light coming in,’ said Raf Simons backstage at Prada’s ‘light, fresh, colourful’ and ‘human’ S/S 2026 men’s show in Milan
-
The standout shows of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: Prada to Dunhill
Wallpaper* picks the very best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026, from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ ‘light, fresh’ and ‘human’ display to Dunhill’s exploration of English dress codes
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: live updates from the Wallpaper* team
From 20-23 June, Milan Fashion Week Men’s arrives in the Italian fashion capital. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
-
With an ode to Italy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake brings its brand of fashion magic to Florence’s Pitti Uomo
Marking the start of a new nomadic way of showing for the Japanese label, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake held its S/S 2026 show at Florence’s Villa Medicea della Petraia as part of Pitti Uomo last night (18 June) with a collection inspired by the colours and textures of Italy
-
What the Wallpaper* editors are looking forward to at Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026
As Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026 begins in Florence, the Wallpaper* style team select the moments they will be looking out for – from Jonathan Anderson’s anticipated Dior debut to outings from Wales Bonner, Kiko Kostadinov and Prada
-
50 years of Santoni, the footwear brand steeped in Italian craft, celebrated in a new book
Inside ‘Santoni Meraviglia’, a richly illustrated new tome published by Assouline that tells the story behind the Italian brand’s meticulously crafted footwear
-
‘The White Lotus’ meets La Dolce Vita: inside Mytheresa and Dolce & Gabbana’s Taormina takeover
Wallpaper* travels to Taormina, Sicily, where a two-day celebration of the latest Dolce & Gabbana x Mytheresa collaboration centred around San Domenico Palace, A Four Seasons Hotel – the filming location of ‘The White Lotus’ season two