Simone Rocha A/W 2018

Mood board: There was considerable progression to Simone Rocha’s poetic womenswear this season. In tulle aprons, tinsel-flecked tartan skirt-suits and sturdy loafers from which to make practical strides, Rocha’s woman gave the impression of confidence, strength and pragmatism. Even the lightest and most sultry of lace or tulle dresses were grounded by canvas utility belts with miniature pouches. A delicate flower? Think again.

Best in show: A glossy olive trench coat with enlarged ruffle trims set the benchmark for outerwear, yet there was something beguiling about the nude tulle apron dresses, which this season Rocha had separated at the back and then tied together again using thick black grosgrain ribbons. This new design detail also carried across into jackets and voluminous skirts. Elsewhere, the designer’s own version of a power skirt-suit – rendered in shimmering black bouclé or vivid tartan – was a force to be reckoned with.

Finishing touches: In what was an unlikely but successful union, Rocha paired long, crystal-embellished wool gloves with ethereal evening dresses. She crafted soft, super-sized totes in the same fabric as the look they accompanied, creating an elegant form of camouflage. Also of note: the small, structured leather handbags that sharpened her trademark romantic silhouettes.