Scene setting: The heart motif is a signature symbol of the Sonia Rykiel brand, and for its A/W 2017 show, held at the grand École des Beaux-Arts, creative director Julie de Libran erected a giant foil heart at the head of the runway. The motif also emphasised the influence of the late French sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle, once photographed wearing a silk dress adorned with romantic hearts, and whose colourful mosaic designs featured silvery reflective fragments.
Mood board: Colourful patchwork plaids and hand-finished Aran knits reflected Saint Phalle’s prismatic aesthetic, while silk dresses, trousers and high-necked blouses were printed with graphic designs resembling mosaics. High-shine coats evoked the artist’s use of plastics, presented alongside more military focused double-breasted coats in khaki and cream. A series of bohemian looks in the finale featured v-neck dresses embellished with bright feathers, and long padded gilets, both essential pieces for a sophisticated French girl in festival mode.
Best in show: A double-breasted striped jacket with shining gold buttons was cinched at the waist before flaring architecturally over the body, while a khaki utilitarian jacket featured Saint Phalle-inspired panels of plaid and denim.
