Dries Van Noten A/W 2017
The Belgian designer delves into his extensive print archive for his 100th show
Mood board: Dries Van Noten was in a nostalgic mood. Which is not something most designers can afford. But then again, Dries is unique. And he has reason to feel nostalgic: this season, the Belgian designer staged his 100th show. For the occasion, he delved into his own archives to unearth some of the best prints of his previous collections. Some of them were used whole, in the same fabrics as the originals, some of them mixed with others, some of them painted on with new patterns. The result, if easier, was a beautiful synopsis of all his career, featuring sublimely cut trousers and jackets, men's shoes, coats, scarves... In short, the reasons why we all keep going back to his brand season after season.
Best in show: It was more of a white jeans and derbies kind of season than a velvet-and-pearls one, but there was still something for the louchest of Van Noten's clients. Namely, the quilted velvet coats, which mostly came in rich colours (tarnished gold, tangerine and terracotta red will prove irresistible to hardcore Dries groupies) and unexpected print mixes. There were also one or two great (fake) furs in bottle green and purple. As for the rest, most of it was great basics, like crepe dresses and wide shouldered blazers (which, as the designer likes to remind, he did way before Vetements).
Team work: This season also marked the 25th anniversary of Dries Van Noten's ongoing collaboration with his colleague and friend Etienne Russo, the creative mastermind behind the Dior Homme and Moncler shows, among others, who has been organising Dries's shows from the very beginning. For the 100th show, he started the casting last October, calling some of the designer's favourite longtime models. Needless to say, they all found time in their busy schedules to be here yesterday. There was Nadja Auermann, Carolyn Murphy, Alek Wek, Erin O'Connor... They, as much as Dries, inspired a long standing ovation at the end of the show.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
This new lakeside house in Chile is a tour de force of contemporary timber construction
Cazú Zegers’ lakeside house Casa Pyr is inspired by the geometry of fire and flames, and nestles into its rocky site
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Kimy Gringoire’s ‘BigLoveCables’: heart-shaped seating and lighting, inspired by her jewellery designs
Kimy Gringoire’s ‘BigLoveCables’ exhibition in MASA’s Project Room, Mexico City, introduces lighting and seating inspired by a core symbol in her jewellery: the heart
By Siska Lyssens Published
-
Kia fields a pair of all-electric camping concepts, the PV5 WKNDR and EV9 ADVNTR
The 2024 SEMA show saw two new concept designs from Kia, exploring the art and function of the all-electric camping machine
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated