Scene setting: Emilio Pucci began creating the colourful and swirling prints that have become synonymous with the Italian house in the 1950s. For Massimo Giorgetti’s A/W 2017 collection for the label, the creative director harked back to the heritage of these silk prints, imagining a catwalk of signature Pucci print in blues, greens and purples. His fascination with colour was even more encompassing, with a spoken soundtrack musing on the various interpretations of each shade used in the collection, a narrator speaking phrases like ‘a truly intelligent green’ or ‘black as my true loves hair’ to tinkling piano music.
Mood board: The colours in the A/W 2017 collection were all taken from Pucci’s archive, and imagined in full monochromatic looks like brown sequinned tops with long fringed sleeves paired with wide tailored trousers; a fuschia dress constructed from hundreds of flowing fringes; and a pearly orange trouser suit. These colours were also mixed up into traditional Pucci prints, and paired with fringe detail sun hats, that Giorgetti imagined in raffia last season, and which entirely concealed the face.
Best in show: Mr Pucci set up his first boutique on Capri, catering to a moneyed customer intent on buying colourful holiday wear. The label has long been associated with sun and snow jetsetters alike, and this travel heritage was noted by Giorgetti in eye-catching Pucci print suitcases, which models wheeled down the catwalk. Nodding to the fact his new customer base might favour something more festival-worthy, Giorgetti also designed a series of clear plastic coats, embellished with geometric crystals.
