Thom Browne A/W 2016
The avant-garde designer's impeccably conceptual approach saw him reconstruct recognisable tailored garments into completely new pieces

Scene setting: Guests at Thom Browne's show stepped out of the snowy Chelsea streets and into an only slightly dusted park square this season, complete with trees, park benches, lamp posts and a clock in the square. The smell of moist soil and a low hanging fog filled the air as models strolled macabrely round the park's perimeter dressed in their intricate finery.
Mood board: Browne's impeccably conceptual approach saw him reconstruct recognisable tailored garments into completely new pieces. Suiting components, like Chesterfield coats, tailcoats and Oxford shirts, and fabrics such as tweed, Melton wool and jacquard, were transformed into voluminous overcoats that appeared simply slung over the shoulders, double-breasted dresses with beaded embroidery and trouser-like capes with brown beaver lining.
Finishing touches: Whether it was Stephen Jones' incredible necktie headpieces, which framed (or obscured) models' faces, the python leather whale and crab chain linked handbags, or doctor-style leather totes and backpacks, there were incredible accessories to savour everywhere we looked at this show.
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Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
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