Thom Browne A/W 2016
The avant-garde designer’s impeccably conceptual approach saw him reconstruct recognisable tailored garments into completely new pieces
Scene setting: Guests at Thom Browne’s show stepped out of the snowy Chelsea streets and into an only slightly dusted park square this season, complete with trees, park benches, lamp posts and a clock in the square. The smell of moist soil and a low hanging fog filled the air as models strolled macabrely round the park’s perimeter dressed in their intricate finery.
Mood board: Browne’s impeccably conceptual approach saw him reconstruct recognisable tailored garments into completely new pieces. Suiting components, like Chesterfield coats, tailcoats and Oxford shirts, and fabrics such as tweed, Melton wool and jacquard, were transformed into voluminous overcoats that appeared simply slung over the shoulders, double-breasted dresses with beaded embroidery and trouser-like capes with brown beaver lining.
Finishing touches: Whether it was Stephen Jones’ incredible necktie headpieces, which framed (or obscured) models’ faces, the python leather whale and crab chain linked handbags, or doctor-style leather totes and backpacks, there were incredible accessories to savour everywhere we looked at this show.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans