Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s

Sound bite: ‘Theory is about real clothes. It might sound unsexy, but everything we make, we sell,' said Siddhartha Shukla, Theory’s Chief Brand Officer after today’s presentation. ‘Theory is based on an industrial complex, we are designers and manufacturers of products. We don’t separate the manufacturing from the design process — we have 100,000 sq ft of atelier in the heart of Manhattan, we develop, design and concept everything here. We produce overseas but Theory is unique in the contemporary space because it’s actually using a traditional atelier, or old couture model, where you are making everything and perfecting it right there and then moving into production. It’s very luxurious to be able to have that, and then to be able to scale it and sell thousands of units.'

Mood board: A tableau of models on a round rotating floodlit stage in the lower level of a Chelsea gallery embodied the theme of nightfall. Shukla was concerned with how fabrics change in appearance from night into daytime. It’s the subtly in detail and precision of cut that elevates Theory above other contemporary brands. Sharp double-breasted pea coats look relevant now but will stand the test of time. Although this was the first time the brand has shown men’s and women’s shown together, it felt naturally intuitive given the synergy between the two: a melange chunky jumper and coordinating scarf and belted blazers, all weighted down by robust utility boots, will slip nicely into the wardrobes of boys and girls. ‘You know, in the fittings the women wanted to wear the men’s clothes,' said Shukla, explaining simply, ‘We’re born of the city and when you live in the city everything has to work.'

Best in show: A dusty pink double-breasted suit personified the masculine feminine line that Theory walks so appealingly. A white sleeveless dress with an asymmetric hem was perfectly restrained yet not uptight. Pieces were underwritten with Theory’s ‘For Good’ traceable and responsibly sourced yarns and materials.