Dries Van Noten A/W 2014

The designer is poised to open 'Dries Van Noten: Inspirations' at the historic Les Arts Décoratifs, both an archival retrospective as well as a curated multi-media, art and fashion exhibition. It seemed all the more fitting that his Winter show, presented under the frescoed, chandelier-wielding ceiling of Paris' Hôtel de Ville, was an entirely modern creation despite the centuries-old setting. Starting with undulating swirling patterns on felted wool that were soon extended to silver appliquéd coats, the Belgian master drew from the Op Art graphics of English artist Bridget Riley, before he introduced acid-hued, tropical floral prints and motifs. These began with a neon lily corsage that adorned a black, gathered sleeved, calf-skimming dress - the ruffled sleeve a recurring flounce of A/W 2014 - and were later hand-painted in silver onto coats and silk dresses. The linear concept then found its way onto intarsia knits, before the designer's sportswear signature showed up in the form of zippered man-style coats and bomber jackets - the geometric patterned and safety-hazard orange versions being square favourites. But given that Van Noten has a lot to celebrate this week, spiraling sequins were soon invited to the rave remit, before one asymmetric-hemmed skirt took a turn, entirely covered in iridescent crystals. It was then followed by an equally encrusted dress that sparkled with the luminosity of the Tour Eiffel, which will no doubt be twinkling for the designer's museum show opening tonight.