The overlap between the Oscars and Paris Fashion Week was magnified by Sarah Burton's collection for Alexander McQueen. With her moody, theatrically tinged presentations, matched by clothes worthy of an epic film period production, Burton could hold her own on the Dolby theatre stage with any top film costumer today. Though she frequently dabbles in futurism, this season Burton went back a couple of centuries to the cold, deserted English countryside. Her runway convincingly reproduced an early morning highland, replete with rocks and bumpy tufts of moss. At first we could barely make out the women who marched out in black astrakhan coats and capes trimmed in fox, their silhouettes barely perceptible against the early morning dark sky. And then, slowly, with everything illuminated, tiers of crisp white eyelet cotton were sharply defined on voluminous dresses. Burton worked a number of Victorian codes, from rich velvet devoré that flounced on skirts, to tightly-wound braiding that took on a punkish twist on the model's corn rowed heads. But she also threw in the savage side of living on the open plains, covering her models with enough long-haired, striped fur to evoke a pack of ferocious wolves. At this point the models wore black fox eyebrows and stomped through the grounds with their all-purpose flat boots, just before things took a romantic turn. Burton finished with a transparent lace gown finale that was every bit as poetic and heart tugging as the end of Wuthering Heights.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Wallpaper* checks in at MACAM Hotel: a night at the museumPortugal’s first hotel-museum is home to 600 pieces of modern and contemporary art and 64 rooms for the ultimate artistic immersion
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This joyful Henri Matisse pottery collection is your new summer entertaining essentialAfter years at the helm of American ceramics company East Fork, the artist’s great-grandson is ready to embrace his family name
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This knitwear collaboration is a playful exploration of the role of the fashion criticWaste Yarn Project has collaborated with Wallpaper* contributing editor Dal Chodha on a sweater adorned with extracts from his 2020 book ‘Show Notes’, collated while reviewing the menswear shows for Wallpaper*
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
