Erdem A/W 2014

There was a dark baroque beauty to British-Turkish designer Erdem Moralioğlu's latest collection, held up by rounded 1960s shapes. Rich with surface texture, the designer did not hold back after last season's palette cleanse, as black velvet merged into jet beaded guipure lace. Few and far between were his earlier prints, replaced by ornamental jacquards, intricate embroideries, or jewel-encrusted florals that clung onto satin cocktail dress confections. The designer had equally grand visions for his tailoring as metallic jacquards formed swing coats and cocooned suiting, while shiny black-stamped crocodile made for the coolest of capes. In addition to the piled decoration, there was also a theme of unravelling as though Moralioğlu could not quite resist the allures of the haberdashery department. Engrossed, the designer added tiny bunches of tassels to embroidered floral evening shifts, and spliced his voluminous car coats at the elbow, just as he played with softly sloping hemlines on asymmetrical party dresses, perfectly balanced by Nicolas Kirkwood's embellished flats.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Glenn Sestig brings his fashion-infused design to a French Riviera flagship
The Belgian architect is the creative force behind the modern-meets-Mediterranean design of shoe label Morobé’s new store in Saint-Tropez
-
Stay in a pastel-hued Puglian palazzo as it starts a new chapter
A haven for the design-minded, Palazzo Daniele reopens following a thoughtful restoration by Milan-based Studio Palomba Serafini
-
‘As an artist, I’ve never felt more useful than now’: Steve McQueen on his monumental film screening in Amsterdam
The film director on why now felt like the right time to screen a previously unseen 34-hour version of his 2023 documentary ‘Occupied City’, on the façade of the Rijksmuseum
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2022: eight important insights to know now
Fashion brands are back with a bang in The Big Smoke. Here’s everything you need to know from London Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
-
London Fashion Week A/W 2021: the future of post-pandemic dressing
London Fashion Week's first digial only-offering imagined a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Burberry, Simone Rocha and Priya Ahluwalia