Ludovic de Saint Sernin S/S 2020 Paris Fashion Week Men's

Scene setting: The show took place on the roof terrace of the Pompidou centre. Its shallow stage of water rippled as models wore looks that clung to the body. The backdrop to Sernin’s S/S 2020 was the transcendent Paris skyline – set against his sexy pieces, the vista offered a sense of urban context; the clothes had a brutal, sensitive rhapsody. Sernin is something of a pop provocateur in a puritan age. His private Instagram account, dubbed ‘the X account’, on which he shares photographs without censorship, has become an insider’s hangout. Sernin is also known for sending beautifully packed boxes of love eggs to admirers of the label. Its kink echoes the constant stream of skin stroked online, languishing under a gossamer screen. Sernin’s clothes are brief, worn to be hastily removed.

Mood board: In his first on-schedule show, Sernin kept things intimate. He has nurtured a cult, brute sexuality since launching his eponymous label. The S/S 20 collection was called ‘Wet n’ Wild’ and the hint of moistened skin was there in the jacquard knits and oil silk suits. Swarovski crystal mesh jeans were low on the body and teased. Knitwear followed the echo of perspiration as sheer layers were knitted between the pectorals and at the small of the back. The vent at the back of a silk trench ran up to reveal a bare bottom beneath.

Best in show: Sheer, two-buttoned tailored jacket and trousers were made modest with a pair of narrow pink velvet briefs. A shorts suit was sheer too but dripping in water so it clung to the body. Silk boxer shorts with crystals scattered at the waist, worn with open shirts. There were eyelets on the cuffs of cinched suiting. Elastic bandeau tops for men had an artisanal athleticism and were worn with roomy iridescent cargo pants. Knitted polo shirts had languid key holes that framed a single nipple. The look had a 90s hangover, a lingering lustiness.