Dunhill at Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019
Mood board: Mark Weston’s second catwalk show for the brand opened with a wide cut, navy double breasted blazer with concealed buttons worn with a skinny pair of black trousers. A split at the hem revealed a pair of almond tipped, heeled loafers. Weston said he wanted to subvert classic menswear clothing codes, albeit in a subtle way. His rigorous silhouettes pack a punch. He explored an 1980s idea of aspiration, focusing on the all-important power clothing with its padded bravura and confident, casual sportswear. Easy wrapped tailoring replaced a classic double breasted jacket. Split hem trousers gestured towards an eighties tracksuit.
Best in show: The clothes were determined, precise. Weston played with the formal codes to give them a buoyant twist. Standout were the leather pieces; a zip-up unfussy biker jacket had a generous volume which tumbled at the back. Dunhill marble lighters in the archives became the inspiration for the green prints on nylon parkas. There’s a slight perversity to it all too as evening silks have the lustre of technical fabrics. Suiting is layered, longer tailored jackets worn with matching trousers and overcoats as if disrupting the very notion of a three-piece suit.
Sound bite: Weston said: ‘I love the idea of taking silk moiré and cutting it into jackets and formalwear coats but in bombers too. We took some of the tailoring shapes from last season and wanted to carry on and keep those codes there. Something strong in leather, which is this time unlined and in easier blousons shapes. I liked last season’s strong confident energy to the show. This was a continuation of that.’