Mood board: The men’s S/S 2018 Issey Miyake collection was titled ‘Through the Desert’. The show notes talked about the presence of a powerful man in an immense landscape. Fashion hokum or a case in point? Sometimes it is hard to tell, but Yusuke Takahashi’s collection, which was shown in the modernist stepped courtyard of the Université Pierre et Marie Curie was the utmost in urbane elegance. With technical fabrications deft of hand, these clothes are rigid yet languid, minimalist yet rich.
Finishing touches: Standout were a series of overshirts made from fabrics that use a salt-shrinking technique. Applied in a ripple mark pattern on polyester broad cloth and cotton, the pattern had a tribal modernism that underscored the rigorous minimalism of the suiting, which closed the show. Takahashi’s trekking man will need lightweight clothes that require minimal care; the tailored suits are treated with pleated pressing after being sewn, which means that the vertical wrinkles create a clean sharp look that needs no ironing. Ain’t nobody got time for that.
Best in show: The house revisited its classic double face cotton textile, which has been a constant in the collections since the 1970s. And, taking inspiration from the dryness of the desert, treated cut-jacquard woven with wool, polyester and cotton to create ripple textures. In contrast to last season, there was less billowing. S/S 2018 made a stronger statement for what to wear in the wilderness. A shrunken opera coat-cum-bomber jacket had a utilitarian drama.
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From Bauhaus to outhouse: Walter Gropius’ Massachusetts home seeks a design for a new public toiletFor years, visitors to the Gropius House had to contend with an outdoor porta loo. A new architecture competition is betting the design community is flush with solutions
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This Portuguese winery looks like it grew from the landscape itselfArchitect Sérgio Rebelo distils the essence of Portugal’s Douro Valley into a new timber-framed winery for Quinta de Adorigo
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In Sou Fujimoto’s far-flung Not A Hotel villa, solitude feels almost planetaryAn underwater sauna, an infinity pool and a circular courtyard garden are just a few of the highlights at Not A Hotel’s latest outpost, on Japan’s Ishigaki Island
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Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
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With an ode to Italy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake brings its brand of fashion magic to Florence’s Pitti UomoMarking the start of a new nomadic way of showing for the Japanese label, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake held its S/S 2026 show at Florence’s Villa Medicea della Petraia as part of Pitti Uomo last night (18 June) with a collection inspired by the colours and textures of Italy
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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In Memoriam: Issey Miyake (1938 – 2022)We remember fashion designer Issey Miyake, who has died aged 84
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The story behind Bao Bao Issey Miyake’s high-precision ‘Dazzle’ bagsCreated using micron-level injection moulding, Bao Bao Issey Miyake’s new ‘Dazzle’ series marks the latest chapter in the Japanese brand’s uniquely recognisable accessories
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
